Nova Scotia
A Rich Maritime Tradition
REED’s RECOMMENDS: For many American sailors, just getting
to Nova Scotia was enough. But for those sailors who won’t rest on
their laurels, Nova Scotia offers much more than the thrill of arrival
and a sail well done.
Mahone Bay, at roughly 44° 25N 64° 01W, is dotted with islands
large and small, but before you enter the bay, stop by the port of
Lunenburg (44° 22N, 64° 18W). If you’re lucky, the 161ft LOA
schooner Bluenose II will be in port, the frame-identical rebuild of
the original Bluenose built in 1921 that held the International Fish-
erman’s Trophy for 18 years. During the summer, Bluenose II makes
twice-daily two-hour cruises. If you’re wondering what Bluenose II
looks like, she’s in full sail on the obverse of the Canadian dime.
With or without Bluenose II, Lunenburg itself is worth the trip. It’s
still a sailor’s town. Both Bluenoses were built there, as were the Tall
Ships Bounty and the Rose. It is a United Nations World Heritage
Site, one of only two urban sites North America, and a visit to this
charming, postcard-beautiful town will be memorable. There’s good
holding in the harbor, many moorings and dock space if you’re lucky.
The Bras d’Or (French for “arms of gold”) is a large, brackish lake
located in the center of Cape Breton Island. Barely tidal, the lake
connects to the sea via the Great Bras d’Or channel at the N end of
the lake and via St. Peters Canal at the S end. Enter via the canal and
prepare yourself for a sailor’s wonderland of islands, anchorages,
wildlife and (mostly) smooth sailing. During extended NE winds
swells can build in the eastern arms of the lake.
If they haven’t already, sailors who enjoy a bit of offshore competi-
tion should consider entering the biennial Marblehead-Halifax
Race (www.marbleheadtohalifax.com), one of the pre-eminent
ocean races in the North Atlantic, which is held on alternate years
from the Newport-Bermuda Race. Bob Towse’s Connecticut-based
Blue Yankee was the overall victor in the 2007 event, which attracted
nearly 125 entries and offered dedicated classes for racing and cruis-
ing yachts. The next edition of the challenging, generally downwind
race is scheduled for 2009.
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