BUSINESS FIRST INNER 39-82:Layout 1 9/6/08 16:54 Page 46
46 TRAVEL
The gate remains, but Katrina took the house.
HARD
TIMES IN
THE BIG
EASY
New Orleans was badly bloodied
by 2005’s Hurricane Katrina, which
claimed almost 2,000 lives. Bloodied
it still is, but as Nick Peters discovered
on a recent visit, very much unbowed.
It was just a flying visit, to sample the 10 day music marathon that is
“Dumbass!” he yelled at the other driver as they passed. In his
the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Fest. It turned into a gastronomic
mirror, he saw the truck stop and turn to come after him. He coolly
and architectural discovery tour - and an education into how people
parked up, pulled his pistol from the glove compartment and stood
and communities behave under catastrophic pressure. Katrina set the
by his truck, arms folded, gun concealed from view, as the truck full
agenda for everything that has happened in New Orleans since 2005.
of young men screeched to a halt beside him.
It colours the way people think about their president, George Bush – he
“Who’s the dumbass now?” the belligerent young driver sneered at
is reviled, along with his government, for their failure to respond
him, backed up by his mates who were clearly itching for some
properly and promptly to the hurricane and ensuing floods, and their
action.
ineptitude when they did. It colours the way they think about their
“I guess whichever one of us forgot to bring a handgun,” my friend
future – years of hard slog trying to bring home all those who fled the
replied, revealing his weapon.
devastation and never came back and trying to rebuild entire
End of argument.
communities washed away in the floods; And it colours the way they
think about themselves – they are a tolerant, kind people, made more
so by a disaster shared.
I had a raging toothache on my arrival. Instead of taking me to
hospital, my friend took me to a nearby tavern. An old man was at the
bar arguing the merits of various horses (it was Kentucky Derby day).
The federal government’s failure to respond properly to Katrina is an
“Hey Doc, my friend has toothache.”
object lesson in how narrow partisanship makes lesser people of
“Probably needs antibiotics. You OK with penicillin?”
politicians. Louisiana and its first city New Orleans are Democratic
I nodded, at which the old man pulled a pad out of his back pocket
strongholds. Republican George Bush responded almost
and wrote me a prescription.
lackadaisically to an event that killed thousands of his fellow
“Please, Doc, let me buy you a drink….”
Americans and devastated one of the country’s - the world’s - finest
“No need,” he replied. “I own the place.”
and most loved cities.
“Everybody’s second city” is a common description.
Without a second thought, the government of Qatar gave New
The Jazz Fest itself was a riot of music, from traditional jazz to blues,
Orleans $100 million and offered creative and effective ways to make
zydeco (Cajun music), gospel, blues and rock. On the final day, under
the money work best. The American government dithered and argued
crystal blue skies, it seemed as if the entire city had decamped to the
over a human tragedy while pouring billions into a ghastly war nobody
racetrack to celebrate their musical and cultural heritage. Beer and
wanted.
cocktails flowed freely, crowds tucked into mounds of local food
It would take guts and a big heart for a politician to have done the
(alligator pie, catfish and the inevitable fried chicken) and jostled for
right thing. As America and the world know to their cost, Bush has
position to see the acts. As we watched Santana I pondered the
neither.
dichotomy of New Orleans’ position post-Katrina. They are desperate
for visitors to come and sample some of the finest food, most
breathtaking architecture and most relaxed fun available anywhere in
New Orleans may be a friendly place, but the locals are the world. But equally, they have to remind the world the city is scarred.
nevertheless armed to the teeth. (Maybe that’s why they are If everyone thinks all is back to normal, then the pressure on outside
friendly; it’s risky to be rude. ‘Be Nice or Leave’ is the city’s unofficial assistance to help rebuild the city’s damaged areas may ease.
motto….) All I can say to that is just go. The city and the people will capture your
My host tells the story of a near collision he had with a truck full of heart and never let it go. It will become your second city too.
young rowdies. Laissez les bon temps rouler.
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