A Stitch In Time 28/11/07 15:10 Page 154
hand-embroidered flowers replacing the traditional braid about its membership criteria, determined to sustain time-worn
edging. “Couture is the best of a designer’s creativity, standards of haute workmanship and service – and their bright
completely individual, timeless and collectable”, she said. “I view new designer, Peter Dundas, does not rule out a return to
it like collecting art. And with prices for top ready-to-wear so couture if the climate is right.
high now, you only need to go another step to own something Givenchy have already been this route: they abandoned
unique, much better made and which fits perfectly.” couture for three years but new designer Riccardo Tisci has
Burlesque artiste and style icon Dita von Teese loves couture restarted and is winning plaudits – and a new audience – for his
so much that she agreed to become part of it this season, dark, edgy, modern style which brings a new dimension to a
modelling a stunning black corset dress and a gold and white traditional craft.
brocade kimono-inspired gown on Gaultier’s catwalk. “I really What is more, new names have arrived. When Lacroix started
appreciate the exquisite work ad the stunning shapes,” she said. in 1987 with his youthful, gamine style attempting to revitalise
“As long as women want that, it won’t die out.” what was then a semi-fossilised industry, commentators thought
Even celebrities have shifted their attitude to couture: it used to he was brave but probably had a doomed enterprise on his
be that A-listers were sent pieces direct from the couture catwalk hands. Now he is one of the best-known names, his brilliant
for major red-carpet appearances and, rumour has it, some are colours and bold prints immortalised for the British by the TV
sometimes paid to wear certain labels. Today, said Giorgio series Absolutely Fabulous, and his label is thriving after being
Armani before his own spectacular Privé show on a specially sold by luxury group LVMH to a firm in South America –
built, curved, glossy black catwalk (conveniently followed by a an emerging couture market.
chic dinner to celebrate the opening of his subtly sumptuous A decade ago, Gaultier
Paris shop with its backlit onyx staircase), “they don’t want to launched his couture line
wear something that has already been seen on the catwalk – already a highly-respected
but prefer to order a dress redesigned to their personal needs.” designer of avant-garde,
Armani’s guest of honour, the film actress Cate Blanchett, whimsical ready-to-wear, he
was an example, wearing a pared-down but utterly elegant dipped his toes into the couture
grey suit that suited her minimalist style, worn plainly with market as an experiment,
1940’s-style waved hair and sparkly Louboutin stilettos.
In tune with their sophisticated celebrity clientele, Versace
– who used to put on the most high-octane showbiz nights
of all – no longer show their couture but deal privately with
clients and celebrities, who get maximum impact from a fresh
dress which has not already been picked over by the press
after a show.
The reasons for buying
couture – uniqueness,
personal attention – may be
age old, but there is a
difference today. Those
CHRISTIAN
300 clients who would order
LACROIX
a complete wardrobe every
season are of the old
school. The far larger
numbers of modern women
who buy into couture do so
sporadically for special
ARMANI
occasions. Every designer
I spoke to emphasised the
importance of wedding and
evening dresses – couture
daywear is often more for
creative idea-play.
ARMANI
There is a changing
dynamic to the shows, too.
With the exception of the great houses like Christian Dior and
Chanel, the names are very different from a quarter of a century
CHANEL
ago. Familiar marques such as (Pierre) Balmain, Nina Ricci and
Yves St Laurent have gone.
One or two are shrewdly in abeyance: Emanuel Ungaro has
retired and his house no longer shows, but they have kept on
the workroom staff, to make private orders and ready-to-wear
show samples. Ungaro as an atelier is still a member of the
exclusive couturiers’ club – the “Chambre Syndicale de la
Federation Couture de Paris”, which bestows the right to show
CHANEL
during the Paris haute couture season, is notoriously fickle
torque | 154
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