Global Gourmet 28/11/07 15:11 Page 105
Mugaritz, Spain
Located just outside the gastro-hotspot of San Sebastian, Mugaritz is owned by Chef
Andoni Luis Aduriz.
Andoni’s cooking might not be as quirky as some of his contemporaries, but it is just
as technically innovative. His, is subtle, intellectual cuisine, rigorous in its ideas.
Vegetables are a speciality and Andoni certainly knows a thing or two about foie
gras – he’s worked with the University of Granada in a project aimed at researching the
vagaries of duck liver.
Mugaritz is housed in a rustic old cider barn in Basque country, and has a relaxed,
inviting feel with its cosy terrace, and herb and vegetable garden out the back. The
dining room is modern and elegant, and the wooden panel dividers create a sense of
cosiness without detracting from the overall harmony and sense of well being.
Andoni is a renowned perfectionist. He studied under Ferran Adria, at El Bulli
(voted best restaurant in the world). Consequently he has achieved innovative dishes
such as sea-bass on beetroot juice with olive oil and salsify; and the foie gras sautéed
with macadamias, sheep’s milk and ficoide (a very rare kind of lettuce).
Little wonder that Mugaritz is the highest new entrant in the world’s best top
50 restaurants, at 10.
Mugaritz
www.mugaritz.com Spain
Michel Bras, France
On the crest of Le Puech du Suquet, upon the Aubrac plateau, the tranquil landscape
is broken up by a commanding vision in glass and steel: Restaurant Bras, opened in
1992, is a thrillingly futuristic design by architect Eric Raffy. The minimalist aesthetic
encompasses granite, slate, basalt, glass, steel and even has a stream running
through the restaurant.
Starting out almost by accident – Michel Bras’ father and mother ran a simple
country inn, Bras never intended to follow suit. It was only when he was part way
through a science degree and his mother fell ill that he stepped up to the plate and,
discovering a natural aptitude, was soon drawn in.
The cuisine of Michel and son Sébastien is deeply inspired by the locality and reveals
unsuspected flavours. His most celebrated dish, the Gargouillou de Jeunes Légumes,
is a dish of some 30 or 40 vegetables - widely considered to be one of the world’s finest
vegetable dishes - each cooked and seasoned individually to retain its flavour.
Of his cuisine, Michel says: ‘It’s not about creating a new dish every day. I have 40
years’ experience; but elements of the dishes change regularly, sometimes twice a day,
depending on what’s good at the market. If I see some nice haricot beans, I put them
on with the lamb, but it could just as easily be courgettes, if that’s what is looking best’.
rance
Michel Bras
www.michel-bras.com
F
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