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ASIA: CHINA AND TIBET
09
HIKERS TRAIL RUNNING ABOVE THE
YANGTZE R
IVER IN T
IGER LEAP
ING GORGE
TERRACOT
TA WARRI
ORS, XI’A
N
CRUISING
THE RIVER
YANGTZE
Our itinerary was really well thought out, the
WOMEN DOING A TRADITIONAL
transfers went swiftly and all the hotels were of
a good standard. Yearick our Chinese guide was brilliant
FAN DANCE
ON THE BUN
D,
and was always ready to go the extra mile for us
SHILIN STO
NE
SHANGHAI
LIZ KIRWAN, LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM
FOREST IN YUNNAN
Yunnan, just south of here, always are fl uent – but the ones who are, well, Chinese for ‘how are you?’ is ‘have you approaches; in autumn, start in the north
proves a favourite with visitors; it’s they might fi nd you; it’s a common eaten yet?’ Chinese food is fantastic, and work south. Summer is the ideal time
home to 26 minority peoples, while the China experience to have someone rush much more varied than its limited for visiting the Tibetan plateau. In winter,
landscape varies from jungle at the Laos up and introduce themselves, eager to expression abroad would suggest. Every Hong Kong and tropical Yunnan – on the
border to rugged mountains near Tibet. practise the English they have spent region has its own cuisine, and it’s all Laos border – are particularly pleasant.
When heading back from here towards years learning. worth sampling – don’t leave without
the Chinese heartland make sure you On the whole, visitors tend to fi nd the having shared a steamy Mongolian BEIJING BECKONS
drop in on the great metropolises, Hong Chinese garrulous, friendly and curious. hotpot, sampled rich and tasty Beijing As the centre of Chinese power for
Kong then Shanghai. Unlike other Asian nations, they’re not duck wrapped in pancakes, and seared millenia, Beijing is an ancient city, built
In terms of practicalities, travelling particularly spiritual or religious – if they your taste buds on some spicy Sichuan around the Forbidden City, from where
in China is getting easier all the time. do go to the temple, it’s usually to pray for fare. Prices are low and standards very the ‘Sons of Heaven’ – the Emperors
Roads are good, with huge new highways, health and money. They’re regarded as a high; head for where the locals eat and – sat enthroned at the centre, as
and the trains – cheap, clean, reliable pragmatic people, known for deference you are virtually guaranteed a cut- they saw it, of the universe. And
and always on time – put some western to authority, an impressive streak of price feast. Don’t worry if you can’t use today, though Shanghai and
services to shame. Taxis are cheap and self-discipline and a great respect for chopsticks; there’ll always be a knife and Hong Kong might be where
plentiful, so it’s rarely worth bothering education and hard work. It’s easy to fork handy. Even when the menu isn’t in the money is, Beijing is still
with the buses, and there are English road make Chinese friends and no one is English, it will usually have pictures of the spiritual and political heart
signs, so it’s pretty easy to get around likely to mind you taking their photo or most of the dishes, so ordering is simple. of the nation. It has a fantastic
– though always carry a hotel namecard asking their business. Conversely, at fi rst As for when to travel, that’s an combination of ancient
in case you get lost. you might be taken aback to fi nd people easy question; China is so vast and so monuments and modern
Now that there’s a huge domestic doing the same to you – strangers will say geographically diverse, that whatever the attractions – don’t miss
tourist market to service, there are hello just because you’re a novelty or look time of year, there’s somewhere that’s the sumptuous Temple
excellent new facilities for visitors. at you with unabashed curiosity, and it’s enjoying ideal weather. Overall, the best of Heaven and the Great
Slick and stylish boutique hotels and quite normal to be asked questions like: time to visit is in spring or autumn, Wall, a few hours
characterful guesthouses have popped “What’s your salary?” when pretty much the whole country north, the new
up everywhere. In the tourist industry, As for the cuisine, well it’s often the enjoys temperate weather. It’s best in museums, all
English is widely spoken. Outside that, highlight of a trip. The Chinese obsess spring to start in the south and work spruced up in
you won’t fi nd too many people who about food; the literal meaning of the your way north and west as summer time for the
8

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