FOOD & DRINK
Dinner @ Cafe St Honoré
words Nicky Howden · photos Susie Lowe
T
ucked down a back lane off Thistle Street, Cafe St the average price of starters being £8 and £20 for mains, or a
Honoré is the sort of place to have in mind for an set menu of £25 per person is good value for money. Available
intimate dinner. The French bistro has been around from 5.30pm to 10pm it includes three courses plus coffee
for almost 20 years and there’s a very good reason why. Soft and petit fours.
candlelight set against an authentic French décor of sepia
The restaurant prides itself on artisan, local or seasonal
tones, black and white tiled flooring and mirrored walls make
produce to ensure taste and quality. Starters like the East
it very atmospheric, and the loyal customers are testament to
Lothian fishcake with its crisp coating and soft texture inside,
the quality of the food.
lightly dressed salad and complementing salsa rossa, £10, and
Earlier this year the restaurant was passed from the hands the delicious organic chicken presse, carluke tomato and onion
of previous proprietors Chris and Gill Colverson, to Andrew chutney from the set menu are great examples of this. Mains
Radford and Neil Forbes. But this change of hands needn’t cause are similar to the starters in that they’re geared to the more
concern. The new owners come from a wealth of experience sophisticated palates.
and count the Atrium and Blue restaurants in their emporium.
After much indecisiveness and finally deciding on the North
So with a fairly seamless changeover in place and head chefs Sea cod, creamed leeks and sprouts, mash and caper and
Neil Forbes and Ben Radford (Andrew’s son) in the kitchen, lemon dressing, £20, I was disappointed to be told, very
how does the food fare? The small, selective à la carte menu apologetically, that the cod was off but the replacement
includes Scottish fish, shellfish, vegetables, meat and game, monkfish with all the same accompaniments surpassed
i-on_Edinburgh_36_Dec08.indd 112 26/11/08 15:18:57
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