The atmosphere everywhere light. But I really enjoyed the two hours we spent
on the Isles of Scilly is very, very wandering around.
relaxed, and the terrace bar is You do have to keep reminding yourself that you’re
a perfect place to enjoy a drink still in the UK, not some sub-tropical paradise.
and take in the surroundings. I think Lt Commander Tom Dorrien-Smith, who
One thing you will inherited the garden in 1955, summed it up nicely: “It is
immediately notice is the quiet. a man of poor imagination who cannot see the gibbons
You will find yourself swinging through the tall trees and the anacondas lazily
whispering because, hanging with good appetites.”
subconsciously, you feel you The walk around the gardens kick-started the appetite
should. You suddenly realise and lunch was taken at the exclusive Flying Boat Club, a
how loud the traffic is at home members’ club which is also open to people holidaying
— even in a rural area like at a boat club beachfront property. During World War II
Pembrokeshire. On Tresco, flying boats flew against German submarines and today
with very few cars, bikes are the Flying Boat Club is based on the waterfront site of
the main transport and the the old air station. The club houses a restaurant and bar
rental shop does a roaring with amazing views over the water and the food wasesco
trade. And with virtually no absolutely incredible. We sat outside on the terrace andTrStatue,Dolphin
crime on any of the islands, enjoyed three courses in the warm sun. Life doesn’t get
children are safe to ride off much better than that.
and enjoy themselves without mum Opposite the club is the top of the range spa, offering
and dad worrying. the best in relaxation with indoor heated swimming
Later that evening it was time to sample the food (and pool, steamroom, various treatments, massage, Jacuzzi
a glass or two of wine, obviously). The hotel restaurant and - for those feeling far more energetic than we were,
is very elegant without being stuffy. There was no issue a fully fitted gym.
with jeans being worn, for example. But the choice and But if we thought Tresco was relaxing, well, we were
quality of food was excellent. As you would expect, fresh in for a surprise. The next morning we boarded a boat
seafood features highly. And you know you're in a high- and made the short trip to Bryher, one of the smallest
class establishment when the couple on the next table inhabited islands with around 80 permanent residents.
start discussing whether to buy a projector "for the Compared to Bryher, Tresco is a thriving metropolis.
snooker room." And something tells me they didn't mean Bryher, and the hotel at Hell Bay in particular, is THE
one of those projectors that teachers couldn't use in place to go if you are ever feeling stressed. If it was laid
school - the ones with the slides that ended up upside back on Tresco, on Bryher it’s positively horizontal.
down. Personally, I’d go for a 50 inch HD-ready plasma The suite was smaller than that at the Island Hotel but
with surround sound, but each to their own and all that. every bit as comfortable. The small balcony looked out
After being thoroughly fed, the complimentary bottle over the Atlantic ocean where large rocks are pounded
of champagne and the sound of the sea lapping onto by waves, sending spray spectacularly into the sky. With
the shore wasn’t a bad way to end the day. near-deserted beaches and coves to explore, Bryher is
The following morning dawned with warm sun, like something out of a Famous Five novel. At one point
perfect for a visit to the famous Abbey Garden about a we were the only people on a glorious sandy beach. In
30 minute walk from the Island Hotel (the signposts tell the middle of June – that says it all. And if the past 1000
you the distance to places in the time it takes to walk!). words haven’t convinced you that there’s something very
The garden is absolutely unique, containing unique about the Isles of Scilly, this certainly should…
around 20,000 exotic plants that simply couldn’t On the beach at Bryher is the studio of a hugely
survive almost anywhere else in the UK. The talented artist called Richard Pearce. His colourful
garden was the brainchild of Augustus Smith, a paintings of the islands, which regularly sell for
wealthy merchant banker who bought Tresco thousands of pounds, hang on the walls. On his desk is
from the Duchy of Cornwall in the mid-1830s. a sign that reads: “If I am not here, please feel free to
His family still owns the island. A keen plant browse. If you wish to purchase something please leave
collector and botanist, Smith recognised the the money in the box provided. Change is also in the
climatic advantages of the islands and box.”
today the Abbey Garden is a must-see And there, on the desk, is a box half-filled with pound
for any visitor. At this point I should say coins, and notes. Remarkable.
that I’m something of a garden-phobe. It may sound strange but time on the Isles of Scilly
To me a garden is perfectly fine with a went fast, despite the slow pace of life. We were never
patio, table and chairs and the odd solar bored, but never busy. And as we left to for St Mary’s I
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40 Pembrokeshire County Living
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