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CLUB CLASS
SYMA TARIQ REVIEWS THE CINNAMON CLUB
The Old Westminster Library, 30-32 Great Smith Street, SW1
020 7222 2555 www.cinnamonclub.co.uk
I have always been suspicious of “fusion” food that attempts to adapt the cuisine of my
childhood. As a purist, I had the impression that tarted-up Euro-curries valued aesthetics
over richness and spice, toning down the chilli and ghee. However, The Cinnamon Club
serves modern Indian cuisine which scores high on ingenuity while staying true to the
flavours of the region. Head chef Vivek Singh creates a gorgeous and diverse mix, and it is
no surprise that his restaurant is a regular haunt for the policymakers and politicians across
the road.
Housed in the Old Westminster Library, the interiors are classic and retain many original
features, with the mezzanine area above the main dining room providing book-lined
privacy. The bar downstairs – hosting a private party on the evening of my visit – is
The Level 7 dining
area (top) and tapas
decidedly modern, with an award-winning interior design, and a glass projection wall for those Bollywood classics you’ve
bar (above)
been secretly hoarding.
The restaurant clientele was perhaps a bit too Whitehall-ish to provide a backdrop for a special date, but the attentive
service and the exhaustive menu is enough to make you want to return again and again to try more. To start, we opted for
the sweet potato cake with ginger, chillis and curried yoghurt (£7.50) and crab risotto with truffle cappuccino and pan fried
king prawn (£9.50), the latter from guest chef Eric Chavot. The cakes were exquisitely spicy, the risotto delicate. It was hard
to choose the mains from the awe-inspiring list, but we finally decided on the roast breast of pheasant with tandoori spices
and moong kedgeree (the accompanying tomato fenugreek sauce was a great touch), and spiced crusted halibut with a
perfectly balanced green spiced sauce and lemon rice (both £26). My dining companion Edd, a visual artist, cooed over the
presentation colours, and both portions had richly combined, euphoria-inducing flavours.
The drinks list was impressive; the cinnamon bellini (£9) was a champagne cocktail specialty that went down a treat.
Finding the right wine for South Asian food is tricky; but the restaurant’s many pairing suggestions were inspired. Also, do
make sure you leave room for dessert. The traditional mango and pistachio kulfi (£7.50), was fresh and beautiful.
The Cinnamon Club is for food-lovers who appreciate choice, surprise and quality when dining. If, like me, you have an
aversion to fusion cuisine, a night out here might quickly make you think again.
"
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