Sonnie Trotter to travel thousands of use it in relation to this other hold, so Echo Wall and also enrich his wider life
miles from Canada to bag the second it’s almost mathematical. That was really with a philosophy and outlook formed
ascent, though not before taking that enjoyable for me, just to puzzle them out, through the extensive periods of time he
same 60 foot fall 24 times! it just appeals to my personality, to know spent climbing.
the layout of the holds in my head and
There’s obviously something special to wander about for a few days and go “Climbing at Dumbarton was a catalyst
about the climbing at Dumbarton when ‘yeah that’ll be it’ and come back and try for everything I did”, adds Dave. “When
a top level athlete chooses the graffiti it and then seeing if it works. That whole I started climbing I hated school, and to
infested and litter ridden Dumbarton process is really cool.” me what I was doing here was just much
Rock at a Glasgow suburb over all more powerful than anything I could
those beautiful climbing wildernesses Speak to any climber and it’s this process have done at school, because it gave
throughout the world. As Sonnie stated in of reading the rock and getting to know me real motivation to do stuff, and got
an interview concerning Rhapsody: “It’s it intimately which appeals, for your me interested in things like the natural
one of those unique, really special lines, it mind to be completely focused on the world and ultimately in things like Sports
make’s you want to travel across the pond movement of your body and totally Science, and all the other aspects I was
just to climb on.” oblivious to anything else in your life. genuinely interested in instead of that
really backward way of learning that
Although Dave has since moved on from
“THAT IS THE ENJOYMENT,
seemed to be in school.”
his old stomping ground I caught up with
THE PROCESS OF IT
him there recently to discuss the special
FEELING TOTALLY
For the first timer, Dumbarton Rock can
role of Dumbarton Rock in his own IMPOSSIbLE THEN definitely feel like an intimidating place,
climbing development.
effortleSS”
probably as much to do with some of the
“That is the enjoyment, the process of it rougher locals who frequent it as with
For Dave, it was the rock type itself that feeling totally impossible then effortless”, the hard and often dangerous climbing.
fuelled his Dumbarton addiction as a continues Dave. This process of working However, spend enough time there and
15 year old to climb all the established very hard problems from failure through you’ll find the locals are actually really
problems there over a period of 3 years to success requires an almost monastic friendly and the place wouldn’t have the
and to then start climbing his own dedication, to be there out on the rock character it does without them.
new routes up the boulders and the day after day, worshipping at the altar of
main face, raising the level of difficulty the rock. Speaking to Dave it’s clear that The ever changing light and mood at
higher and higher. As with any climbing, his character was perfectly suited to solve the rock is sometimes breathtaking and
the rock type specifies the particular the riddles of this rock, to unlock the there’s definitely nothing quite like a
body movements required to climb it movements required for success through long, multi coloured Dumby sunset. Go
successfully. At Dumbarton, the rock hard training. on, even if you’re not a climber you
is very smooth and angular, requiring can take in the views, drink a bottle of
emphasis on technique and efficiency of The ingredients of success Dave learned Buckfast or even visit the castle! Trains
movement to unlock. ‘You have really got at Dumbarton rock to climb difficult run from Glasgow, through Dumbarton
to look at the rock”, begins Dave. “You boulder problems gave him the necessary East station every 20 minutes and it’s a 10
say well that might be a hold from that qualities both physical and mental to minute walk to the boulders and crag and
angle and so I need to work out how to complete his recent astounding ascent of enjoy a special part of Scotland.
photography : claire macleod - www.velvetantlerS.co.uK
Jonathon bean - www.eQuatorlive.com/blogS/Jonathonbean
GUM•3
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