bANGKOK : A CITY ON THE EDGE
WORDS: JAMES RAE
PHOTOGRAPHY : KRISTINA bONEVA
It was nine o’clock at night when we arrived in Bangkok after a tourist areas. Although protests can spill onto the streets, we
gruelling 14 hour bus journey from Cambodia. The sky line of encountered one by the democracy monument but everything
the city was illuminated like something from a science fiction was conducted peacefully. I spoke with an Australian girl who
film, endless columns of steel spiralling vertically into oblivion was involved in the protests said she didn’t see any signs of
and chaos. violence despite media reports. The best thing to do is to stay
away from protests if at all possible, the Thai authorities are
There is a serene beauty to Bangkok’s city centre at night that ruthless and will bang you up for next to nothing.
is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of the never ending tuk
tuks, vendors and lady boys that made up the destination we Apart from the occasional protest and the like, Bangkok is an
were heading for - the legendary Koh Sahn Road in Bangkok’s amazing city full of great sights and a brilliant nightlife, with
Banglumpoo district. Koh Sahn has been made world famous hedonism rivalling the likes of Amsterdam and Vegas. Anything
as a rest stop for backpackers providing cheap hostels and a goes in Bangkok except drugs so don’t be a fool and get caught
dazzling array of nightlife. The street itself is very long with a in possession of anything, you will get a fine or do hard time.
labyrinth of side streets (sois) where a lot of cheap guesthouses
and hostels are available. Revellers are treated to makeshift bars
bANGKOK SURVIVAL TIPS
that adorn the streets after nine o’clock, with offers of cheap
beer and buckets. The latter of which consists of a quarter
Drink bottled water... for the sake of your insides.
bottle of Sam Song (a local rum that is 80% proof) two bottles
of red bull and soft drink of your choice.
Keep your wallet on a belt.
If you survive the buckets there is plenty to do, clubs adorn
Haggle Haggle Haggle.
the street, ranging from pumping drum and bass to singer
songwriter live performances. In terms of eating street vendors
Don’t take tuk tuk tours that offer temple tours - they will try
are perfect, everything is cheap and you see it being cooked in
and rip you off.
front of you. If you are looking for something a bit closer to
home it is easy enough to find fast food outlets like McDonalds
Don’t get involved in political protests however fun they
and Burger King.
might look... and if you do don’t get caught!!
In terms of shopping everything goes for sale on Koh Sahn,
Throw away the lonely planet guide. Everyone goes to the
be sure to check merchandise before you buy as it may be a bit
places they suggest which means they will more than likely be
dodgy, I had a necklace explode into a thousand pieces around
booked up.
my neck. Apart from Koh Sahn Bangkok has a lot to offer. The
shopping in the centre of town is pretty cool, the MBK centre
Bring padlocks for your rucksacks or luggage and keep your
has an eclectic mix of stores and stalls and if you’re sick of
keys with you at all times
haggling you can go and pay for what you see in retail outlets.
Ping Pong shows are a lot more insane than you think. All I’m
If you like temples try and see the grand palace and the temple
saying is razor blades!!
of the jade Buddha, it’s awesome. One thing I can’t emphasise
enough is to check the country’s political climate on the
Use local buses... at night you can sometimes get them for free.
foreign office website: www.fco.gov.uk. We were in Bangkok
during the latest spate of protests against the now ousted PM
If it has an Adams apple and a penis it is a man not a
Samak Sundaravej. By and large the protests where focused on
seemingly beautiful girl!
government buildings which are far detached from the main
GUM•2
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