Network Health Dietitians July 08 Issue 36

book review
In Defence of Food;
the Myth of Nutrition
and the Pleasures
of Eating
Author: Michael Pollan
Publisher: Allen Lane
(an imprint of Penguin
Books), 2008
£16.99 – hardback
ISBN 978-1-846-14096-9
reviewed by Ursula Arens
‘Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants’
The above leitmotif captures how
and everyone is confused. The rise of
nean family get-togethers portrayed
to eat well, and author Michael
nutritionism (the reductive approach
in olive oil advertising. Foods should
Pollan sure gets the prize for suc-
to foods and diets on the basis of
be basics that are minimally pro-
cinctness. Consumers are very
nutrient composition) is traced back
cessed and ‘do not make health
confused about what to eat to
to a report on diet and health under
claims’ – regard non-traditional food
stay healthy, and it appears that
the chairmanship of US senator
with scepticism. Eat mostly plants, es-
us dietitians are not helping. In
George McGovern, issued in 1977.
pecially leaves, and try to buy fresh
from growers at markets (avoid the
fact, nutrition science may be a
The McGovern report, Diet Goals for
supermarket). Eat at the table (can
hindrance to the improvement of
the United States, called on Ameri-
cans to cut down their consumption
you believe that one study reported
national diets. Culture rather than
of red meat and dairy products, but
that a ﬁ fth of all eating by Americans
‘nutritionism’ is the way to turn
this resulted in a ﬁ restorm of criticism
is now en route in the car!), and try
around today’s poor eating habits,
from these industries, and parts of
not to eat alone. Choose well-grown
and Michael clearly feels that any
the report had to be rewritten. The
food from organic soils, and consider
talk of nutrition is an obstacle; a
motto ’speak no more of foods, only
the health and welfare of animal
more foodie approach is needed.
nutrients‘ was the political lesson for
protein sources. That said, Michael
Does this mean dietitians/nutrition-
food policy makers, and subsequent
also advocates the use of multivita-
ists have failed the sole remit of discussions and reports on diet in min supplements.
their profession? the US and internationally were now
In Defense of Food is a thought-
Michael gives a very interesting codiﬁ ed into complex nutrition sci-
ful discussion of current food hab-
review of many aspects of modern ence terminology.
its. The author questions the value
(US) food culture, and how despite The way forward, argues Michael,
of nutrition-speak in public health
the plethora of nutrition informa- is the reintroduction of healthful food
education, and in discussion of this
tion, and nutritionally-enhanced habits through a cultural change of
book, dietitians will need to rebut or
foods, diet quality in many people values, as mirrored in the perhaps
reconsider. A very interesting book.
is poor, obesity rates are booming, idealised scenarios of Mediterra-
32 NHDmag.com July ‘08 - issue 36
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