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The Grand’s dining room
DAVID HUDSON REVIEWS ST PANCRAS GRAND
Upper Concourse, St Pancras International, NW1
020-7870 9900. www.searcys.co.uk
The transformation of St Pancras station has been one
of the most stunning redevelopments in the capital for
many years. One of the jewels in the station’s crown is
undoubtedly the new St Pancras Grand.
Run by Searcys – the upmarket company responsible
for the St Pancras Champagne Bar and several other
noted venues across the city – this latest addition to the
station’s portfolio threw open its doors at the beginning of
September. On the upper concourse, opposite where the
Eurostar trains gracefully slide into the station, stepping
inside this beautiful establishment is like stepping back
in time. It’s like the dining room of a grand hotel from the
1930s, with the art deco and expanse of a classic European
brasserie. The colour palette is brown and gold, with dark Britishness. Open from 7am till late, there are diff erent grain mustard butter and a drizzle of bright green olive oil
parquet fl ooring, an abundance of highly polished brass and menus throughout the day, with an abundance of seafood, (£14.50). This was velvety, rich comfort food of the highest
mirrors, a gold-painted ceiling and delicately etched glass soups, salads and cold meats, alongside lunches and order. My friend had slow-roast belly of pork (£15.50) with
partition strips between tables and banquets. Setting out dinners. I opted for one of the day’s special – smoked eel marmalade and cloves – the marmalade providing the
to combine the ‘grandeur, mysticism and exoticism of the with potato and apple salad (£8.50). The sweet crunch perfect citrus accompaniment.
Orient Express and New York’s Grand Central Station’, the of the potato and apple cubes perfectly contrasted the Leave room for dessert. We had the best ever custard tart
team have succeeded in creating one of the most beautiful beautifully smoky softness of the eel. It was sublime. My served with butterscotch and Garibaldi biscuits (£6.50) and
dining rooms in London. companion had potted mackerel (£6), which he described an equally thick and indulgent English sherry trifl e (£6.50).
The food lives up to the surroundings. Mindful of its as ‘heavenly’ – chunky fl akes, perfectly seasoned and served St Pancras International is one of Europe’s most stunning
location, and that the restaurant may be the fi rst port of in a dish lined with clarifi ed butter and a side of rye bread train stations. St Pancras Grand pushes it even further ahead
call for many of our European neighbours, executive chef and cucumber and dill salad. I followed this with smoked of the competition.
Billy Reid has gone for a celebration of quintessential Finnan haddock with crushed potatoes, poached egg,