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ANightatthe Opera
Thewonderful experience of Verona
By Rowena Carr-Allinson
ictureawarm summer evening, an enthralled audience and In celebration of theVerona Opera Festival’s 80th anniversaryin
some of the world’sgreatest performers, conductors and 2002, film director Franco Zeffirellifilled thestage with acast ofP
orchestras. Add to that the unusual setting of,acandlelit hundredsand an enormous golden pyramid flanked by sphinxes.
2,000-year-old Roman amphitheatre, and you are in for an
unforgettableexperience. The Arena seats 20,000,from unreserved and cheaper
seats in the stone galleries perched on the upper
Everysummer,thousands of people gather under ramparts (the Gradinata non Numerata),tothe better
the stars in Verona’s Roman Arena for the Opera seats downonthe floor (the Poltronissime).
Festival.Originallybuiltin30AD as astadium for
games and circuses, the Arena became home to Although theperformance doesn’t start until after dark,
the opera on August 10 1913,with abreathtaking usuallyaround 9pm, it’swise to arriveearly.For those
performance of Verdi's Aidatocelebrate the in the Gradinata non Numerata, rent acushion for
centenaryofthe composer's birth. comfort, as the sun-baked stone can be unforgiving
to sit on for several hours, and makethe most of the
Nearlyone centuryonthe atmosphere remains intermissions to stretch your legs and grab some
electrifying.Asthe moon drops into view,asea of refreshing ‘gelati’ or Italian wine from the girlsinyellow,
candles is lit–atradition that began in 1980 in homage who weave throughthe crowds. Forthose with tickets in the
to the first performance, when there was no electricity and Poltronissime,the experience is quite different, with aformal
the audience brought in their own candles to light up the stage. dress code, more space and better viewsofthe stage.
Today,the tiny birthday cake-like candles are picked up from an
unmarked box before entering. If you’re unsure which opera is right for you, you can check the
Anteprima Opera, adailypreview put on by the opera’s performers
Although the amphitheatre’swallsare ruins in places, the acoustics in the elegant Palazzo della GranGuardia. It’sthe perfect way to get
are stillnear perfect and with such an enormous set to fill, directors alittle taster of theevening’sperformance. Whether you opt for the
can put on grand scale, lavish productions. Verdi’s Aidaisa majesticAida, Bizet’s spectacularly dramatic Carmenoreven
particular favourite, having been performed here over 500times. Puccini’s romantic La Bohème, prepare for abewitching experience.
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