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Society
07
Kira Plastinina’s style
www.mnweekly.ru/lifestyle Find “Russian fashion hits
the catwalks”
Style The rapid growth of the Russian clothing market has brought a surge of interest in
everything to do with fashion, even though Russia has never had major fashion houses
Aristocrats who
Transformed Paris
Russian Fashion:
Fashion
Creativity and Capital
Alexander Shumsky, Russian
Fashion Week producer:
“Russian fashion design has — designers all too often regard
made great strides in recent investors as mere philanthro-
years. In 1999, six or seven Rus- pists. We are, however, com-
sian designers participated in ing to realize that creativity and
major international shows. To- capital can go hand-in-hand.
day, their number stands at Russian couture is starting to ap-
somewhere between 50 and 60. pear in shops—for instance, at
At first, our fashion gurus did not the GUM Department Store on
understand why spring and sum- Red Square, just opposite the ROGER VIOLET_AFP
mer garments should be shown Kremlin. Another major store, the Stage designer Leon Bakst took the fashion world by storm with his
in winter, and the other way TsUM, also in downtown Mos- elaborate costumes. Leon Bakst in 1900.
round. Now they have accepted cow, is negotiating to start a sim-
world practice. ilar boutique. I think Russian de-
“Big business came to Russian signers will have their boutiques
fashion design in 2000. Before in all major department stores in
that, collections were created three years or so. There is a lot of
mostly for parties attended by talent in Russia, and I hope Mos-
wealthy individuals. Now, we in- cow will eventually be on a par
vite potential investors to shows. with London, Paris and New York
Not that it’s easy to get money in the fashion world.”
TATYANA PARFIONOVA FASHION HOUSE
Russia has recently ova, and Viktoria Andreya- rin have still not been able
experienced a surge of interest
Past and Present
nova. These were real pio- to go beyond a high-priced
in everything fashionable. neers who overcame preju- private fashion house with
Thousands of young people Though Russian designers Later on, Christian Dior and dice against Russian fashion. small collections and sever-
dream of becoming designers, have never been global trend- Valentino amply drew on Rus- In the 1990s, most Russians al boutiques.
and competition at the leading setters, Russian style occa- sian themes. Yves Saint Lau- preferred to wear exclusive- Recently, the situation has
fashion colleges is formidable. sionally inspired top coutu- rent demonstrated one of his ly foreign-made clothing. started to improve. One de-
This may be the result of riers. It started with Serge most memorable collections Now, with easy access to signer, Alyona Akhmadul-
rapid growth in the Russian Diaghileff’s Saisons Russes in 1976—the Ballets Russes, Western brands, Russian lina, plans to conquer the
clothing market, which stands in Paris in early 20th century. which was inspired by Rus- consumers want individual- Russian mass market.Suc-
at around 20% annually. Folk costumes and other Rus- sian history. Last year’s New ity and have returned to local cessful Russian brands, such
Moreover, Russians spend, sian clothes became popular in York Fashion Week saw sev- designers. It was no coinci- as Vassa and Sultanna Frant- RIA-NOVOSTI
on average, twice as much France. Paul Poiret made a col- eral American designers’ Rus- dence that at the last Mos- suzova for SoFrench, have Grand Duchess Irina, a niece of Emperor Nicholas II, and her husband,
of their income on clothes as lection of Russian-style dress- sian-style collections. Earflap cow Film Festival, most ac- started to appear on shelves. Prince Felix Yusupov, opened their fashion house, the IrFe. Irina and
Europeans (13%, versus 6% es and coats. caps, velvet caftans and pat- tresses chose outfits made by They opt for intricate clas- Felix in 1910.
in Europe). Russian fashion became even terned tunics won the greatest Russian designers. sical patterns, quality fab-
more popular after the Bolshe- acclaim. The latest Caractere Every year, there are rics and feminine style,
SVETLANA SMETANINA
vik Revolution of 1917, when collection bears the telling around 3,000 applications which is particularly popu- The first Russian invasion combinations – for instance,
MOSCOW migr s established about 20 name of “Siberia,” and a Gu- from all over Russia to Rus- lar with consumers. was in 1814, when Cossacks blues and tans.
fashion houses in Paris. Coco cci designer says she borrows sian Silhouette, a young de- Fashion industry experts and Hussars flooded Paris
While interest in wearing Chanel promptly introduced ideas from Russian art books. signers’ competition. It is the believe that the real vogue after the defeat of Napoleon. How did emigre fashion develop
Russian-made clothes is Russian-style high-collared Even without major brands of most prestigious competition for Russian designers is just Culturally, however, it was after the 1917 revolution?
growing, the recent experi- dresses, embroidered blouses its own, Russia is always in of its kind in Russia. Only beginning. In fact, 89% of a century later that France First, we should remem-
ences of several Russian de- and fur-trimmed coats. vogue in the fashion world. 70 collections make it to the the audience at the latest began to feel the Slavic ber that Russian artists had
signers have demonstrated finals and no more than three Russian Fashion Week ex- influence, when Diaghileff’s an impact on the Parisian
that they still have many hur- or four names become re- pressed a preference for Rus- Saisons Russes set a trend fashion industry long before
dles to overcome before they nowned afterward. sian designers. that saw Russian style the revolution. Marie Vassil-
will be able to conquer the Historically, Russia has Yudashkin, who made the This is not because of a The largest obstacle is dominate the era. Here, ieff designed dolls and fur-
mass market. Thus far, Rus- never had major fashion heavy opulence of the pre- lack of talent, but a lack of technical: the clothes must historian of fashion and niture, and Sonia Delonnais,
sian designers’ clientele is houses. The only exception revolutionary royal court his investment. For a long time, be mass-produced and sold Russian emigre Alexander a young artist from Kiev, be-
limited to those who are was the acclaimed Nadezh- trademark style. The 1990s it was thought that invest- at major retail outlets. If this Vasilyev gives his take on came a celebrity for her use
wealthy. da Lamanova, who made saw a whole galaxy of tal- ing in fashion was too risky. happens, Russian brands Russian haute couture, the of original color patterns as
clothes for royals and re- ented fashion designers – No wonder such Russian have a chance of improving parallel reality behind the a textile designer. Stage art-
ceived the honorary title of Tatyana Parfyonova, Igor fashion stars as Tatyana their Soviet-tarnished repu- Iron Curtain. ist Alexandra Ekster was a
“Purveyor to the court of His Chapurin, Yelena Makash- Parfyonova and Igor Chapu- tation.
-
frequent presence in Paris
5
facts
Imperial Majesty.” Never-
TATYANA BASOVA
long before emigration, and
about
theless, dressmaking always “GOSUDARSTVENNAYA DUMA” made innovative hats.
had a high standard in Rus-
MOSCOW
But after the revolution, of
fashion
sia. Everyone knew how to course, there was an influx
sew – from peasant girls to
Kira Plastinina: Teenage
Scholar, art collector and of aristocratic Russian ladies
aristocratic ladies. This skill eccentric wit, Alexander into Paris, complete with
A European survey of literally helped the latter to Vasilyev trots the globe as a their immaculate manners,
1.
international markets survive when they emigrat-
Fashion Sensation
lecturer on the history of proud bearing and Slavic
predicted clothes and ed after the 1917 Bolshevik fashion. Born in Moscow, he charm. Making their living
footwear sales in Russia will revolution. spent the first half of his life on stage and the catwalk
reach $8 billion in 2009. In the Soviet Union, the Kira Plastinina is both a on Prechistenka Street, one after they fled penniless
craftsmanship of private phenomenon and a force of the most romantic nooks abroad, they created the re-
Starting a designers’ seamstresses was also in de- |to be reckoned with in the of the old capital, before im- fined image of the Art Nou-
2.
workshop in Russia today mand. Everyone who really Russian fashion industry. migrating and settling in veau woman. This admirable
requires a minimum wanted to dress fashionably At only sixteen, she is Paris, which is where he be- Russian style was perhaps
investment of around – from actresses to the wives already more popular came interested in the his- best captured by Princess
$300,000, according to of party officials – ordered than most Russian tory of fashion. His striking Natalie Palei, a cousin of the
industry experts, designers and their clothes exclusively designers. lectures encapsulate the Romanovs. But there was
entrepreneurs. from private seamstresses many twists and turns in his also Grand Duchess Maria
because the variety and Last year, Kira Plastinina own life. Romanova, who started the
The fashion preferences quality of clothes in state presented her first collection As an author, Vasilyev be- Kitmir house, which special-
3.
of Russian consumers shops was insufficient. Find- at Russian Fashion Week, a came the first to tell the ized in elaborate embroidery;
have changed. While five ing such a seamstress was major Moscow fashion show world about the Russian émi- Grand Duchess Irina, a niece
years ago the majority of not always easy, and recom- held every six months. grés who won Western hearts of Emperor Nicholas II, and
Russian Fashion Week visitors mendations were often re- Today, she has 40 shops in haute couture but re- her husband Prince Felix Yu-
chose the most trendy brands, quired. Some women trust- throughout Russia bearing mained unknown in their an- supov, who opened the IrFe
now they pay less attention to ed their seamstress’ taste and the Kira Plastinina brand cestral lands. fashion house; and Princess
the label, and simply choose the skill so much that they would name. He won fame with his best- Lobanoff-Rostovski with her
things they like. give her a piece of fabric and Rumor widely attributes selling books Beauty in Exile lingerie house. The list goes
say, “make something of her skyrocketing career to the and 150 Years of Russian on and on.
The most expensive your own choice.” financial support of Kira’s fa- Fashion. Later he became As the émigré aristocrats
4.
T-shirt made by a Russian The first fashion label in ther, a successful business- known at home in Russia, showed, it’s far more reward-
designer costs 30,000 the Soviet Union was Dom man who has allegedly invest- where few had ever heard of ing to pursue style than fash-
rubles (around $1,200). It has a Mody Vyacheslava Zaitseva ed tens of millions of dollars émigré fashion houses before ion. Style lasts longer and is
0.05 carat diamond on the front (Vyacheslav Zaitsev Fashion into his daughter’s promo- reading his books. far more respectable.
-
imitating an earring in a picture House). It was established in tion.
MAXIM SHMETOV_ITAR-TASS
of a girl. the 1970s. Zaitsev promoted But the biggest boon to her Paris Hilton, left, and Russian fashion mogul Kira Plastinina at the Was it the sensational Saisons
traditional Russian style and career came from American Moscow Fashion Week closing gala. Russes that brought Russian
Moscow hosts two dressed his models in dress- celebrity Paris Hilton, who fashion to Paris?
5.
fashion events every six es made from the famous appeared on the catwalk They were a tremendous
months: the Fashion Pavlovoposad shawls and alongside Kira in Moscow and planned to wear a diamond collection targets a teen au- success. An important play-
Week and the Russian Fashion embroidered quilted jack- praised her collection. The studded dress designed for dience, and, with prices rang- er in this was the superb
Week. Each features 120 ets. next day, Hilton bought half her by Plastinina to the Os- ing from $30 to $100, is quite graphic artist Leon Bakst,
fashion designers. Later another fashion of the Kira Plastinina stock cars. affordable for high school and who designed the costumes
name appeared – Valentin of clothing. Hilton even The young designer says her college students.
-
and scenery for several bal-
lets. His ideas infatuated the
world.
Constructivist and non-
figurative artists snatched at
the trailblazing geometric
patterns of his textiles. He
inspired couturier Paul
Poiret, who already had a
liking for Russian art.
From 1910 on, however, it
became a theme that fashion
magazines would photograph
their models in ballet poses.
The Paquin fashion house fa- SERGEY PYATAKOV_RIA-NOVOSTI
mously elaborated on Bakst’s Leon Bakst. Natalia Truhanova’s
sketches. Many other coutu- costume for the La Peri ballet,
TATYANA PARFIONOVA FASHION HOUSE riers used his striking color 1911.
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