BOOKMARKS www.admhmao.ru Yugra’s official website
RUSSIA BEYOND THE HEADLINES
1rre.com/news/doc/3417/ Yugra’s housing market is ahead of many
Russian regions
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Focus
05
In His Own Words Writer Chris Hutchins traveled to the heart of Siberia to talk with
the governor of the oil-rich Yugra region
Yugra
ITAR-TASS
A wilderness region that is a glitzy
symbol of Putin’s Russia
Siberia is not somewhere one information about Filipenko tioned my task in helping to
would usually expect to find Governor Alexander Journalist from a source who is in daily solve the difficulties between
Norman Foster skyscrapers,
Filipenko Chris Hutchins
contact with Putin. The re- our country and Great Brit-
top-notch medical care, sponse was: “I can tell you ain but I do not know much
international film festivals, why Volodia [the affectionate about these problems.
sports events and political name by which Putin is known “During the Cold War, our
summits. But, having been to his closest associates] has armed forces were engaged in
fashioned into a Russian placed so much trust in him. an arms race that was a threat
showcase by Putin and his Putin knows he is an honest to the entire world. But it is
associate, Governor Alexander man who tolerates no corrup- wrong to think of our energy
CLARUS PRODUCTIONS
Filipenko, oil-rich Yugra is now tion. He accepts only a mod- dialogue with the West as a
home to all that, and more. est salary, and is the only Rus- continuation of the politics of
Ahead of the forthcoming EU- sian governor who does not that time. We are a reliable
Russia summit, Chris Hutchins have a private jet, but travels partner in the energy sector,
travelled to its capital, Khanty- on regular flights sitting along- there are no disputes to threat-
Mansiysk, to meet Filipenko. side the people he governs. en this as, say, there are in the
“His morals are high to the Middle East.”
CHRIS HUTCHINS
CLARUS PRODUCTIONS extent that he will not even It is for this reason that
INDEPENDENT BRITISH JOURNALIST AND permit the customary news- Khanty-Mansiysk is of par-
WRITER
Born in 1950, Filipenko was ed- Chris Hutchins is a British jour- paper to have advertisements ticular interest to Western
ucated as a transportation en- nalist and author. He has writ- for prostitutes, which you will leaders. Deep inside Russia,
Nо one was more surprised gineer and worked on the con- ten biographies on Princess Di- find in just about every other Yugra boasts an abundance
than Alexander Filipenko, struction of a bridge across the ana, the Beatles, Athina Onas- region.” of Russia’s natural riches.
Governor of the Russian re- Ob River in Siberia. In 1991, he sis and Russian billionaire Ro- When I ask the Governor With oil and gas prices likely
gion of Yugra, when he got a was appointed head of admin- man Abromovich. He is about this, he laughs and his to remain on the upswing, the
telephone call from Vladimir istration of the Khanty-Mansi- currently working on a book interpreter seems embarrassed region is set to benefit from
Putin just before the New ysk Autonomous Area. In 1995 about President Putin. when she delivers his reply: the additional revenue. It is
Year. Not that Filipenko was he became governor, and a year Hutchins, already a Russophile, “Perhaps that is one respect therefore in its interest - po-
unused to receiving calls from later won the gubernatorial admitted after visiting Yugra in which our town has not litically and economically -
CLARUS PRODUCTIONS
the President; the two had election. In 2005, after election that we wanted to learn more caught up with the rest of civ- that the talks with Western Foster and Partners: the forthcoming “Yugra Tower”
long been friends and politi- rules changed, President Putin about the ‘Siberian way of life.’ ilization.” But I have already leaders go smoothly. Perhaps
cal allies. It was the subject recommended Filipenko for an- He calls the Governor and his been made aware that he feels one day Yugra will become
of Putin’s call that caught 57- other term as governor. colleagues the ‘Siberian elite.’ nothing but disgust for those important to U.S. energy a 28-year-old nurse. Having land to keep their animals.
year-old Filipenko unaware. politicians in Moscow who needs as well. moved to Khanty-Mansiysk Nowadays, of course, I live in
The President told Filipen- regularly sleep with such Filipenko is confident that from Latvia at the age of four, a ‘Little Switzerland.’”
ko that he was placing him in women. Khanty-Mansiysk will impress her initial impressions of the Indeed, there is no town or
charge of the Kremlin’s forth- panying glamour and red-car- who live in villages that can- The morals of Russia’s its distinguished visitors when town were not good. “I was city in Russia that I have seen
coming charm offensive with pet fanfare. not be reached by road. An “Western cities” - Moscow and they arrive in June. In a town not happy at all. I had moved that reflects the Western-style
the West. Filipenko had, of But what about the outgo- ultra-modern hospital ship St. Petersburg - is, he says, a that both Putin and Filipen- from a country with near-Eu- prosperity of Khanty-Mansi-
course, known for some time ing President’s decision to hold cruises Siberia’s Ob and Irtish subject he and Putin have dis- ko consider a model for the ropean level of services to a ysk, the capital of a region,
that a Russia-EU summit was such vital talks in a small town rivers. Complex operations are cussed often; the outgoing New Russia, the streets are town that was too cold and that although the size of
to be held somewhere in Rus- so many miles from Mos- supervised by surgeons from President, Filipenko explains, free of litter and drunks, and too uncomfortable. I couldn’t France, is home to just one
sia in June, and that Britain’s cow? the central hospital in Khan- despairs at his failure to end few of the splendid houses are get used to the dirty streets percent of Russia’s popula-
David Miliband, the young Filipenko smiles and turns ty-Mansiysk using TV moni- the corruption which caused older than eight years - the with wooden pavement (or, in tion.
Foreign Secretary, and pos- on his best diplomatic charm. previous presidents little or no some cases, with no pavement While there are admitted-
sibly Prime Minister Gordon The President, he relays, wants concern. at all). There was no architec- ly no Lamborghinis or Fer-
Brown would be attending. to show Western leaders that "The streets are free In that respect, where Putin A region to which the ture, only unattractive little raris racing down the streets
But he did not expect Putin beyond the Urals there is more
of litter...and few of
has failed, Filipenko has suc-
Soviet Union once
huts. There was only one place of Khanty-Mansdiisk, the
to choose his capital, Khanty- to Russia than Moscow and
the splendid houses
ceeded. His region - with its
Mansiysk - a town of just St. Petersburg. abundance of natural resourc-
dispatched its dis-
to dance - the park - which much more suitable Porsche
60,000 people 1,240 miles east Just five years ago, he says,
are older than eight
es - now generates far more
sidents and most
was only open in summer. 4WD is driven in plenty. Lo-
Then, when the first cafe cally-produced mink coats -
of Moscow - as the location the city attracted 150,000 tour- years." money for Mother Russia than hardened criminals opened, there were so many necessary in temperatures
for such a critical meeting. ists a year. Last year the fig- any other. people that you had to stand that drop to -40 degrees - are
Then again, Alexander Fil- ure was closer to half a mil- The 57-year-old grandfa- in line to get in.” Now the also worn in abundance.
ipenko is no ordinary politi- lion: “Many people come to tors that relay pictures by sat- ther of five continues: “I know period of Putin’s presidency. choice of European-style cafes Then there is a premiere
cian. When Putin appointed see bears and other animals,” ellite television. that Russia has a bad reputa- Filipenko’s eyes light up and and discos is overwhelming. hotel - the Ugorkaya Dolina
Filipenko governor of the oil- explains the interpreter. It comes as no surprise, tion as far as corruption is he nods affirmatively when I “Young people are very happy - known locally as the “Well-
rich Yugra region early in Under sportsman Putin’s therefore, to learn that Fili- concerned. I can’t say that ask him if it is true that many here now. Life has changed ness Hotel” due to the size
2005, he made a very public direction, Khanty-Mansiysk penko’s region is the only one there isn’t corruption in Yugra, of Russia’s most famous movie so much.” of its health spa. Whether
declaration of the fact that this has also established itself as in Russia with a birth rate but here in the north every- stars have built the mansions Natalia Vlasenko, a 40- Putin, Medvedev and Brown
was the man he trusted more a strong sporting venue, host- higher than the death rate. In one knows what everyone else which occupy the land once year-old shop manager, agrees: will ever get to sweat and
than any other. ing ice and skiing events that other parts of the country, is up to. I do believe, howev- filled with timber huts. (This, “I moved to Khanty-Mansi- gossip in one of its saunas
With his ice-blue eyes, slim attract international compet- Putin has issued dire warn- er, that if it does exist, it is remember, is a region to which ysk in 1991. I wasn’t shocked remains to be seen.
build, well-made suit, wel- itors. ings of a rapidly declining not as rife as it is in other re- the Soviet Union once dis- as I had lived in a similar place So far the whereabouts of
coming handshake and smil- A new triple concert hall population. “Our birth rate in gions. Here we are more in- patched its dissidents and before, but I remember that the five houses Governor Fil-
ing countenance, Filipenko dominates the center of the Yugra is now more than dou- terested in art, education and most hardened criminals, usu- back then there were no street ipenko is having built to ac-
looks more like a Western town, and a splendid church ble the death rate. What’s social harmony than making ally to die from the bitter cold lights. In the evenings, the commodate his important
businessman than a typical topped with golden orbs is more, life expectancy fortunes for ourselves.” in winter, sweltering heat in town would simply fall into guests is a something of a state
Russian official. being built on a hill where here is now more I draw him back to politics. summer and total lack of med- darkness. In autumn and secret. But so concerned are
We meet across a table that people once lived in tepees than five years He confirms his surprise when ical facilities). Today, he tells spring, it was almost impos- the secret services responsible
dominates his huge office suite made from animal skins. greater than the Putin telephoned him to say me, that has all changed sible to walk without rubber for protecting their leaders in
atop a government building Khanty-Mansiysk’s univer- national average. he had arranged for the Rus- thanks to the riches provided boots because the streets were a town which has never pre-
overlooking the city’s Victory sity - and, perhaps more im- So we must be sia-EU summit to be staged by oil and gas, which provide full of large and dirty pools viously needed security that
Park. The office is adorned by portantly, its hospital doing some- in Khanty-Mansiysk: “Yes, I heating and air conditioning of water that no one bothered a rare conference of MI6, the
a large portrait of a smiling - enjoy top-notch thing was surprised - pleasantly sur- in abundance as well as a hos- to clean. While walking down CIA, FBI and FSB (successor
Putin. technology. In the right,” prised - but I understood his pital which is the envy of the the street, I would meet cows to the KGB) has been ar-
Filipenko seems to be in a course of our inter- says Fili- reasons. It may well be a long rest of the country. and horses, since not ev- ranged.
ebullient mood. This, he ex- view, I am taken to penko. way from the European Rus- Over cappuccino (far more eryone had the That in itself demon-
plains, is because the city is the window to be Prior to sia, but it is the New Russia, popular here than vodka), money to buy strates a rare measure
hosting Russia’s week-long shown rivers this inter- a Russia beyond the Urals that I spoke to Victoria Pavlova, of cordiality. Hopeful-
equivalent of the Cannes Film which act as life- view, I can feed the less fortunate ly it’s a sign
Festival, with all the accom- lines to those sought parts of the country. You men- of things to
come.
-
Hotel & business center
in Khanty-Mansiysk
OLEG PRASOLOV_RG
National cuisine
In Uzbekistan, they call them Ingredients pieces out with your fingers until you have a thin, cir-
manty. The Italians call them ravioli, 2 cups flour • 1 cup milk • 8.8 ounces beef • cular disk about two inches across and 1/16 of an
Pelmeni: Russian
the Chinese, wontons, the Geor- 8.8 ounces pork • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil • inch thick.
gians, khinkali. In Ukraine, they’re 3 eggs • 1 onion • 1/2 tablespoon salt • pepper, pow- 4. Place a teaspoon of the meat mixture into the center
version of a
filled with sweets and called vareniki. dered garlic to taste of each disk. Make sure there are no holes in the dough,
In Russia, however, they are good old Filling or all the meat and juice will leak out when cooking.
universal food
pelmeni, a food deeply embedded in 1. Run beef and pork twice through a meat grinder. 5. Fold the dough in half and seal the edges.
the national identity of every Russian. 2. Add chopped onion, salt, pepper, garlic and a bit of These may be frozen (well-refrigerated pelmeni can
No one knows how pelmeni – half- milk (this makes the meat more tender and juicy). keep for several months) or immediately boiled.
moon shaped dough containing Dough To boil
IRAKLI IOSEBASHVILI
chunks of ground meat – came 1. Crack eggs into a pile of flour. Add warm water gradu- Fill a large pot with water and add salt. Drop in pelmeni
SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR
about, but theories abound. Today ally, followed by salt, milk and oil. Knead until you have and boil until they rise to the top. Stir often to prevent
THE MOSCOW TIMES
they are eaten all over Russia. You soft, non-sticky dough, and let sit for 30 minutes. the pelmeni from sticking together or to the bottom of
can find pelmeni in any well-stocked 2. Dust a surface with flour. Divide the dough into sev- the pot. Make sure not to overcook — when the pelmeni
Moscow supermarket (they are one IZOSOFT.RU eral pieces, and roll each one into a long "snake," begin rising to the top (approximately 7 minutes), take
of Russia’s most popular bachelor Boil pelmeni in a large pot of salted water approximately one inch in diameter. one out and test for readiness by piercing it with a knife.
meals). until they rise to the top 3. Cut cylinder at one-inch intervals, then flatten Serve with sour cream or vinegar.
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