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Feature
PowerList 2008
18-room hotel, but in ambience they are a million miles apart. The
higher up into the mountains you go, the more the raw energy of
the capital dissipates and a serenity takes over.
Great views were to become a feature of our trip, but looking
down on Kingston from Strawberry Hill’s one-of-a-kind negative-
edge pool took some beating.
Day 2
The following day we headed north to the more tourist-oriented
Ocho Rios. It takes about two hours by road, but if you ever want to
get an idea of what a beautiful country Jamaica is, it is a journey you
must take. Some of the sights on the way are simply spectacular,
there’s an amazing variety of plants and trees, especially in the
aptly named Fern Gully, and, as you pass village after village, you
get a real sense of what Jamaica is all about.
our driver, tyrone, swims with the fishes (above); and a statue of Firefly
the great man at the Bob Marley museum (right) We got to Ocho (pronounced Ochee) at about 3pm and headed
straight for Firefly, which is situated a few miles outside Ocho in
until he passed away in 1895 at the age of 75. Nowadays, the house the sleepy residential village of Oracabessa, the house where
is a tourist attraction run by the Jamaican government. Many of the legendary playwright Noel Coward lived. It’s a National Trust
its outside buildings, such as the stable, servants’ quarters and landmark now and they have preserved it just as it was when
kitchen, have been converted into small shops, which sell arts and Coward died in 1973. The building itself, while light and surprisingly
crafts, ice cream and one is a bakery. Although it is in the process of modern, is quite spartan, but Firefly is all about the outside. And
being refurbished, Devon House still bears many original features, the views of Jamaica’s north coast from the grounds overlooking
such as the chandelier in the ballroom, the Wedgwood-style ceiling the sea are truly breathtaking, some say the best in the Caribbean.
and even a hidden gambling room, complete with a removable Our guide mentioned that Microsoft head honcho Bill Gates visited
staircase in case the authorities came calling unexpectedly. Firefly and spent six hours sitting in the garden, simply taking in its
beauty, something even he couldn’t buy.
Bob Marley Museum
Next up was a tour of the Bob Marley Museum, which most of Goldeneye
us thought would be geared to the type of tourist in search of Though none of us wanted to leave Firefly, we still had somewhere
the stereotypical Jamaica – weed and dreadlocks – and which, else to fit into our schedule. So it was a 20-minute drive down the
consequently, was not something we were particularly looking coast to the Goldeneye resort.
forward to. But it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip, Goldeneye is where Ian Fleming wrote every one of the 13 James
not least because of the engaging dialogue of the young lady who Bond novels. Fleming, a commander in the Royal Navy, had been
was our guide. sent to Jamaica during the Second World War to look for German
They may call it a museum, but it’s a far cry from the grand, submarines. He was only there for three days, but it was long
Victorian structures around the corner from the Jamaica High enough to convince him that he was going to live the rest of his life
Commission, on Exhibition Road, south London, that house the on the island.
thousands of artefacts the British nicked from around the world In 1946 he returned, bought 15 acres of overgrown land that was
in the name of empire. It is set in Marley’s house and illustrates being used as a donkey racecourse and designed and built a house
the simplicity of the great man’s life. There are no frills about the that he lived in until his death in 1964. Then in 1976 Chris Blackwell
place and it is almost impossible to think that any artist in today’s bought it from his estate, after Bob Marley, who had initially agreed
bling-infested celebrity world would live so basically. But from the to purchase it, changed his mind because he thought it was too
gunshots in the wall (the famous assassination attempt), to his posh! Since then Blackwell has built a boutique hotel on the land,
bedroom, to the thousands of press clippings from all over the which comprises three villas and two houses, including Fleming’s
world that adorn one of the living rooms, you get a sense of the house, which now has three bedrooms and a private beach. And if
great man’s aura. His snooty neighbours hated his lifestyle, and you and Bill Gates have in common more than a love of the view
their constant complaints were the inspiration behind the tune from Firefly, you can rent it for about £10,000 a week. Or you can
Crazy Baldheads, which he wrote sitting under his favourite mango buy one of the apartments or villas being built there. They start at
tree, indulging, no doubt, in his favourite passion. just under £400,000 for a one-bed.
Strawberry Hill
Day 3
There’s a strong Marley connection to Strawberry Hill, the boutique
hotel hideaway 3,000ft up in the Blue Mountains that is owned by Chukka
Chris Blackwell, Bob’s manager, and which was our next port of The next day we spent the morning at Chukka Caribbean Adventures
call. It’s about a 30-minute drive from the heart of Kingston to the on what they call a sea safari – but which is basically a chance to
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