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after the nuit blanche, the all-nighter Paris throws for the art tourist
each autumn, the Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain (FIAC) set
up shop in the nineteenth-century glass-and-wrought-iron jewel the
Grand Palais and in the Cour Carrée – a square air-conditioned tent
in the Louvre’s courtyard. Part assault on the mounting importance of
other cities trolling for art bucks, part enduring Paris tradition as crucible
of innovation, the city’s efforts in recent years to climb back aboard the
art-market rocket has been formidable.
Comfortably reoccupying its former premises, FIAC – and its
above: Richard Deacon, Another Mountain (detail), 2007,
stainless steel, 290 x 420 x 340 cm, Thaddaeus Ropac
spawn, Show Off (Espace Pierre Cardin) and Slick (Pavillon Carré de
Baudouin) – finds itself competing with Frieze across the Channel and
Art Basel across the Atlantic and the Alps, not to mention a handful
of contemporary art fairs in New York, Los Angeles and Berlin, all
participating in the feeding frenzy around the contemporary-art circuit,
eager to scoop up any able-bodied collector in town.
“For many years FIAC was behind Art Basel, and then
competition from London, Miami and New York (the Armory Show)
hurt Paris – largely because it lost its most dramatic setting at the Grand
Palais,” says Thaddaeus Ropac, the Austrian art dealer whose Salzburg
and Paris galleries attended every significant art fair in 2007. “You could
really feel it. Paris was no longer the centre of the international artworld.
But since the return to the Grand Palais, collectors and dealers have
returned too. They love to come to Paris, and the city has found its
place without competing with London and its very young artists.”
The art bash in the French capital sounded like a great plan this
year until France lost in the Rugby World Cup semifinals to England
and the RATP decided to pull a massive Métro strike the day the art fairs
opened up to the public. Call it a performance piece with thousands of
collectors scrambling to rent Vélibs, the city’s public bicycles. (In spite
of the transport kinks, the FIAC reported a 17 percent rise on 2006, to
72,000 visitors, over the course of the five-day event.)
Ropac adds that 2007 didn’t have the typical wave of American
and German collectors, but many from Belgium, Switzerland and
France, a fact which, he concludes, “says a lot about the potential of the
FIAC for the French-speaking world”. above: Entry to Thaddaeus Ropac
Most high-end Parisian galleries attended the FIAC, and
facing page: facade of Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin
the tactic was clear: bathe prospects in Champagne and French charm
at home.
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Pilgrimage_Paris.indd 95 7/11/07 10:21:35
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