14TIMES
&
D
ia
r
y
EATING OUT
A Mediterranean
flavour in
Moretonhampstead
Jacqui Titford visits the White Horse Inn, which has been
included in this year’s Michelin Guide
N
igel Hoyle and Malene Graulund with the best of modern British cuisine. and Ireland. There are only eight new
bought the dilapidated pub in
Nigel and Malene were both actors,
entries for Devon.
March 2006 and proceeded to
and met whilst rehearsing a play in All the pubs in the guide have been
give it a major overhaul including
London's West End. During his acting selected for the quality of their cooking.
reinstating the original courtyard,
career which involved television, film, However, a number of them deserve a
refurbishing the kitchen and the
theatre and radio, Nigel nurtured his special mention as they boast at least
virtually derelict barn at the back and in love of food by training as a chef. one extra quality that makes them par-
mid June 2007 the restaurant was
Malene has managed restaurants in
ticularly special. This could be the
finally opened.
her native Copenhagen and it was a
delightful setting, the charm and char-
Nigel and Malene did all the cooking, mutual ambition to one day own a acter, the excellent service, the overall
but the food has since taken off so well restaurant. The last two years have been value for money offered or the excep-
that they now employ three full-time a true whirlwind for them with a huge tional cooking.
chefs who work with Nigel, creating an refurbishment, start-up of the food Commenting on the evolution of pub
ever changing menu with an emphasis business and the birth of baby daughter food and its rise in popularity, Derek
on local and seasonal produce. Daisy eight months ago. They are Bulmer, the guide’s editor said: ‘The
As they are fortunate to be in an area delighted that all the hard work has standard of cooking in British and Irish
that offers an incredibly diverse array been rewarded with the inclusion in this pubs keeps getting better and better. We
of fresh produce, this is reflected in the year's Michelin Guide. are seeing a growing confidence in our
cooking. Having cut his teeth in Italy, This year’s guide includes 563 of the culinary heritage, greater use of local,
Nigel's menus have a definite best pubs serving good food in the UK seasonal ingredients and a rediscovery
Mediterranean flavour which is fused of regional specialities’.
THE WHITE HORSE INN:
Its building was once a
coaching inn with a
courtyard and a barn for
stabling in the 1700s.
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