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ASIA: cAMBODIA
19
and Vietnamese phrases he summoned of research Delourme tried a little, while
help in the form of a motor skiff with a the rest of us looked on aghast. The local
tie line. Its owner towed us back out to children encouraged him to finish it,
open water and pointed us on our way telling him in exaggerated mime that it
through the velvet darkness. In all my would make him strong and energetic, but
years of travelling I have rarely felt so far even the intrepid Frenchman was beaten
VISItING ANGkOR WAt from home as during that exchange. by this offering.
“Visiting Angkor Wat with kumuka was a fantastic experience. My advice Finally we made landfall. Kompong The final leg of our expedition took us
is to take your time. the temples are amazing and almost all deserve your Chhnang is a teeming fishing town, west, to the coastal towns of Kampot and
full attention. Go back to some of the more interesting ones at different and as we peered out into the morning Kep, near the Vietnam border. Kampot was
times of the day. For instance, Bayon in the morning (cool and very busy) is sunshine to see where we had spent the once a thriving market town, the main
very different to Bayon during lunch time (when it is very hot, deserted and night we found that our boat was the port of entry for imported goods, and a
tranquil). the angle of the sun also makes a big difference on how well you centre of amused attention. stronghold of the Chinese mercantile
can see the reliefs and sculptures. For any art lover Angkor Wat and all its We took a fishing boat class. Many of the houses still
surrounding temples are a joy.” down the tributaries of have the names of their
FIONA MOUS, LONDON the Mekong to see original Chinese owners
the floating nets and inscribed above the
the fish traps. Strung portico. The town also
effect a vast floodplain, is over 100km looks like floating vegetation is actually between stilted houses, boasts some fine Art Deco
from north to south and, at this time treetops. We were effectively floating the traps are cunningly and Modernist architecture,
of year, after monsoon, its area is through the canopy of the submerged designed so the fish can though much was destroyed
swollen to 16,000km
2
. It provides forest – a surreal but exhilarating swim in, but not out. When by shelling and mortar fire from
75% of Cambodia’s annual fish catch, sensation. the level of the lake drops in the Khmer Rouge in the ‘70s.
and downstream it feeds the mighty We slid ever further through the February or March, the haul can Nearby is the splendid Knai Bang
Mekong River. soupy brown water. Occasionally the be picked by hand from the traps and Chatt Hotel in Kep. Three fabulous stucco
The skipper explained that the water surface was broken by the head of a transported to a quayside market, where modernist villas, dating from the early
level is 10 metres higher at this time riversnake. “The more of the body you see all types of spanking fresh fish lie like ‘60s and lovingly restored, look out over
of year. What on the surface, the more poisonous they silver bullion. an infinity pool to the sea. In pastel pinks
are,” Vudhty helpfully explained. Less appetizing, at least to a Western and blues they would be at home in any
Onboard, a miraculous lunch palate, are the 21-day-old duck eggs which book of “Modernism’s Greatest Hits”. We
appeared, prepared on the most can be picked up as a snack. Cooked for dined on barracuda carpaccio and clams
rudimentary gas burner. Fish cakes, three hours, the unsuspecting snacker with tamarind, in an outdoor dining-room
green tomatoes with shrimp and glass finds that, as well as the hard-boiled yolk, overlooking the sea, as another electric
noodles, fish amok and rice. We sat on the the shell contains a part-fertilised duck, storm wrought havoc on the waves.
deck, round a low wooden table, drank beak and feathers and all. In the interest An unforgettable experience. n
Angkor beer and feasted like royalty. Life
does not get much better than time spent
BOOk It! cAMBODIA
on a boat with close friends, good food
and fine weather.
Seven of the tours in our extensive range of Asia options include visits to
At dusk we strayed into a floating
cambodia. the country lends itself to family holidays and adventure seekers,
village, the sounds of dogs and children
and you can venture further with a tailor-made itinerary.
and a TV carrying through the still
r
i
c
h of the night. The layout of the village
a
r
d

was so complex that, once in, it was cAMBODIA UNcOVERED
s
t
r
a impossible for Legros to manoeuvre the SMALL GROUP tOUR 12 DAYS
n
g
e

boat out again unaided. With a £705, €1060, AU$1800, NZ$208O,
(
2
)
combination of Khmer, French US$1485, cA$1625, ZAR11,985
Of course we visit the impressive ancient city
of Angkor Wat, but this tour will give you a
full immersion in the fascinating culture of
Cambodia, taking in some of the country’s
most remote and dramatic areas.
ASIAN EXPLORER
tHAILAND, LAOS, VIEtNAM, cAMBODIA 33 DAYS
£1855, €2785, AU$4735, NZ$5475, US$3900, cA$4270, ZAR31, 535
Four countries – the jewels of Indo-China – in 33 days: the big one!
MEkONG, MYStERY & kINGDOMS FAMILY tOUR 10 DAYS
Adult / child: £715 / 535, €1075 / 805, AU$1825 / 1365,
NZ$2110 / 1580, US$1505 / 1125, cA$1645 / 1235,
ZAR12,155 / 9095
Of fish
mar
CHECK OUT OUR ASIA BROCHURE AT WWW.kUMUkA.cOM
kets a
nd
floatin
g villa
ges...
a
place
of intr
igue.
cALL US tODAY! Uk 0800 092 9595 IRE 1800 946 843 USA/cAN 1800 517 0867 SOUtH AFRIcA 011 881 5765 ONLINE WWW.kUMUkA.cOM
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