Concession close to the Old City, is unexpectedly Decoesque in its plasterwork of sunbursts, scrolls and rippling waves, pristine white against saffron walls. Another example of this synthesis between modernism and traditionalism is the Villa Bayankara (1936), 44 Qinghai Rd., a streamline courtyard mansion, with ribbons of windows and a circular sunroom.

Outside many of these buildings, the Shanghai Municipal Government has mounted Architectural Heritage plaques. But, according to architectural historian Tess Johnston, these protected buildings represent only a small fraction of Shanghai’s Art Deco heritage; a disheartening number have disappeared in the quarter century she has lived in the city. Surviving architectural gems, such as the Paramount Ballroom (1934) 218 Yuyaun Rd., a bastion of 1930s hedonistic nightlife, are often much altered inside.

However, there are signs that the preservation movement is maturing. At municipal and district levels, there are increasing initiatives to identify and protect historic buildings. Shanghai-trained architects can now specialize in architectural preservation. Private citizens are undertaking projects to heighten public awareness of Shanghai’s architecture. And enterprise has discovered conservation’s


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Architectural Insights

Exhibition Centre
100 People’s Ave.,
+86 21 6318 4477
A showcase of Shanghai’s architectural history and aspirations, with photographs, models and multimedia displays, and an eye-popping model of the city in 2020.

Former Residence of Lu Xun
No. 9, Lane 132
Shanying Rd. by Duolun Rd.
+86 21 5666 2608
Revered as one of Shanghai’s foremost modernist writers, Lu Xun spent his last years in this Art Deco lane house, which is furnished with his belongings. Interesting Art Deco Shikumen houses and other Concession-era villas survive in the lanes around Duolun Road.

Shanghai Museum
201 People’s Ave.
+86 21 6372 3500
www.shanghaimuseum.net
Chinese bronzes, coins, furniture and sculpture from the Neolithic Age to the present illustrate the symbolic motifs used in Chinese architecture from ancient times to today.

Shanghai Municipal
History Museum
Gate 4, Oriental Pearl Tower,
1 Century Ave., Pudong
+86 21 5879 1888
Special emphasis on Shanghai’s Concession era, with artifacts, dioramas and life-size tableaux.

Shikumen Open House Museum
No. 25, Lane 181, Taicang Rd.,
by Xingye Rd.
+86 21 3307 0337
www.xintiandi.com
A reconstruction of a middle class traditional home, situated in Xintiandi, a prestigious development by Ben Wood that has its detractors, but has helped demonstrate the financial viability of preservation.

Deke Erh Art Center
Building 2, Lane 210, Taikang Rd.
Art center run by photographer and collector Deke Erh, who specializes in Art Deco design. Taikang Art Street itself provides a view of contemporary life in Shikumen lilongs.