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PROBLEM
Technical queries answered by one of the
leading MG specialists
Please send your questions to:
SOL
VED
The MG Car Club, PO Box 251, Abingdon, Oxon, OX14 1FF
E-mail: mgcc@mgcc.co.uk Fax: 01235 533755
Q1: I have owned a 1098 Midget for about six months given as 106,000 miles or 7 years. The quantity for refill is 2.2 litres.
and there is a problem that I am struggling to solve. The Why there is the different recommendation since it is basically the
car starts from cold very easily and runs well. Operating same box I am not sure although there were some changes within
normally on open roads the coolant temperature is 160 the box so maybe that's the reason. As for the Halfords oil I can
degrees F. If I have driven it for 15 to 20 miles and then only suggest that you ask Halfords to confirm that it meets in all
stop the engine it will not start again for about half an respects the specification of MTF 94. Supplies of the Rover Group
hour and the coolant temperature has dropped below MTF 94 should be available from any X Part stockist who will either
120 degrees. Also if I get stuck in traffic the temperature stock it or at worst order it in. Bearing in mind the infrequency of
climbs to about 190 degrees and the engine then stops. the changes it’s probably worth getting the manufacturer’s
Have you got any ideas on what would cause this? recommended oil.
Answer:
As with any engine failure the first thing to ascertain is whether there Q3: I own a late 1978 MGB Roadster but have always
is fuel or spark since, apart from a large hole in the side of the wanted an early Chrome B. How difficult would it be to
engine, these are basically the only ones that will cause a running convert my rubber-bumpered car to what I think is a
engine to stop. Yes, I know this is a generalisation but it’s basically more desirable chrome alternative?
true. So the next time the engine stops with the water temp over Answer:
190 switch off and ascertain, by removing a float chamber top, This conversion has been undertaken many times in the past
whether there is any fuel in the chamber. If not it’s a lack of fuel. If with varying success and to complete it properly there is perhaps
there is and it’s at the right level it’s almost certainly going to be the more to it than at first sight! The obvious area is the visual one (i.e.
ignition. The detail would suggest that heat soak is causing an the rubber bumpers); however, it’s not quite so obvious that the
electrical breakdown. Without access to a Crypton or similar ride height of the car has been raised at the front and back. A car
diagnostic machine basically it’s going to be trial and error. Likely modified to chrome bumper with the standard raised ride height of
culprits are the condenser, rotor arm, distributor cap or even the the rubber bumper just does not look right, so a decision about
coil and perhaps the main HT lead from the coil to the distributor. that needs to be made at the outset. The second point is about
It may be useful to check the fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel value. It’s unlikely that on sale you would recover the cost of the
pipe and pumping say a pint into a container and timing the delivery. conversion even if properly completed. Converted cars are seen by
A decent pump should deliver approx, say, 8 gallons per hour so a some as being neither one thing nor another!
pint should be delivered approximately between 50 and 60 As to the actual work to add the bumpers and grill, this is not
seconds. Do take great care while carrying out this check since you particularly difficult but it will involve bodywork, both welding and
will have a container of highly inflammable liquid. If you have any painting, since all four wings will need modification and subsequent
doubts get a professional to do the check. The other item worth painting as well as the removal of the rubber bumper mounts in
having a closer look at is the rotor arm, particularly inside the shaft the radiator duct. The chassis legs will need drilling and tubes
recess for indication of burning since, due to heat soak, it could start welding in for the spring steel bumper mounts to bolt to at both the
shorting out here. The other possibility is that the carburettors are front and rear. We have seen this element bodged with bits of bent
just getting too hot and the stoppage and poor starting is caused by steel bolted to the valance but this is hardly a sensible solution.
vaporisation of the fuel. This has been a problem after a short stop, As for the ride height, that can be reduced by using lower set
but once the car is running it should keep the carbs cold enough springs and is a viable compromise. To reduce it to full chrome
with the incoming fuel to keeping the temperature down. Inspect bumper specification height the rear chassis legs should be modified
the heat shield carefully. Good luck. and at the front a chrome bumper cross member be fitted (or the
original modified). But this then brings in alterations to the steering
Q2: I need to change the oil in the gearbox of my MGF rack mounts and rack. Frankly it gets out of the bounds of being
and, from a list of lubricants found in the workshop sensible.
manual, I understand I need an MTF 94 gearbox There may be reasons why you want to retain your existing
lubricant as supplied by Texaco to the MG Rover Group. car but given the very competitive prices of some very nice genuine
I have tried various places locally with no luck. But my chrome bumper cars on the market it may be worth considering
local Halfords have a gearbox lubricant which has the another car.
performance characteristics of API GL4 and a viscosity
of 75W80, which I understand is the same as MTF 94.
Questions kindly answered
Can you confirm that the Halfords oil is compatible, and
by the technical experts at
therefore can be used in an MGF gearbox?
Brown and Gammons.
Answer:
www.ukmgparts.com
The recommended change of oil on a MGF gearbox is at 96,000
Please direct any technical queries through MGCC
miles without a time limit whereas for the MG TF the oil change is
www.mgcc.co.uk NOVEMBER 2008 Safety Fast! 67
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