CW60 INSPIRE p87 - Chapel Street:Layout 1 2/10/08 14:16 Page 87
Inspire
Chapel Street Brasserie Opens its Doors
Fresh off the boat (so to speak), the Chapel Street Brasserie and Wine Bar French feel, with olives, cheese, and salad dishes available to titillate the
has taken the place of Bar Cocos in Penzance. taste buds without overfilling the stomach.
For many fans and followers of Cocos, there is a desire to see if its Eventually, after what seems to be much soul-searching, I decide on an
replacement can live up to the sophisticated, laid-back feel that was entree – beef Wellington in filo pastry, wild mushroom farce with Madeira
cultivated before. Ever keen to selflessly serve the public, I went along to jus, new potatoes and seasonal vegetables – and have to wait for a
check it out myself. remarkably short time, even at a busy period, before it arrives. Before tasting
From the moment I walk through the door, I feel that I am going to like anything, the amazing smell of my food convinces me it will be delicious.
it here. The Brasserie has retained the positive features of Cocos, with a Which it is. I would, however, advise anyone eating here to embark on a
fresh, relaxed atmosphere, but has opened up the space by moving the bar small-scale fast beforehand: with large portions and an amazing depth of
to one side and reflecting the back wall with large mirrors. Customers are flavour you don’t want to get halfway through and feel full.
soothed by the mellow strains of Norah Jones (a favourite of mine when As an aside, I heard recently that a good way to tell the cleanliness and
relaxing), and the thought hits me on arrival that it wouldn’t be completely general standards of hygiene of a restaurant kitchen is to investigate the
beyond the realms of possibility to come across a holidaying Jude Law or bathroom. Reassuringly, on entering the one here, there is a notice warning
Kate Moss eating here (less eating in the case of the latter I assume.) of wet paint and I find it freshly decorated, sweet-smelling and clean. So, if
Based on the concept of a French brasserie, the ‘wine and dine’ this theory is to be believed, there needn’t be any ‘Rogue Restaurants’
restaurant has taken on the aspects that make this work overseas, while worries while dining here.
adding a local slant. A French brasserie’s fixed-price menu is in residence, All in all, I had a very pleasant visit. The staff were extremely friendly and
based on one, two or three courses, of which there is a very wide variety. helpful, and the setting caters for the need for a special night out without
After sitting at our table for around 10 minutes, for instance, I am still splashing vast amounts of cash. My only regret on leaving was that I didn’t
considering myself stuck for a decision between the three courses I’ve have room for the chocolate and Baileys parfait dessert. A bitter regret.
managed to narrow it down to. The menu tonight features a large
selection of meat, including lamb, pork, beef Wellington, chicken and steak, The Chapel Street Brasserie and Wine Bar, Chapel Street, Penzance,
as well as some less-common and distinctly more continental dishes such TR18 4AW. Lunch is served from noon-3pm daily, and evening meals from
as veal and calves liver. There’s also a plentiful supply of fish, with haddock, 6pm. Bookings can be made by calling 01736 350222, or for the super-
salmon, mussels and oysters on offer. Starters have an especially light and easy option book online at www.chapelstbrasserie.com
Inspire 5
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