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WHISKY COCKTAILS
drunk.” Bartenders are rightly proud of their
individuality and creativity, so dictating terms to
them could do more harm than good.
We know that in China they drink long with
PEOPLE ACTUALLY WANT
green tea, and Spaniards opt for cola – but when
TO TASTE THE BASE THAT
it comes to full-blown cocktails, what works best?
There is, of course, no single answer to this
THEY’RE DRINKING, SO question, but most of the experts seem to tend
WHISKY IS A REALLY
towards the classic recipes. As Pengelly says,
“There’s a growing trend towards the old
INTERESTING BASE TO
Manhattan-style classics, adding less ingredients
so the strong character of the whisky really
WORK WITH. WITH
comes through.” This certainly tallies with the
VODKA YOU ONLY REALLY
Glenmorangie perspective: the brand actually
uses the word “serve” rather than “cocktail”,
GET FLAVOUR FROM THE because the objective is to “enhance the spirit ...
MIXER
not to over-shadow it with mixers”. But such a
viewpoint is by no means universal. “We’re
stepping away from the classics,” says Forbes of
simply crying out for something slightly more Monkey Shoulder (which, true to form, goes
expressive and individualised to weave their against the grain). “Our push is mixing with fresh
magic on – and for many, malt whisky stands out fruits and a wide range of flavours – not just a
as perfect opportunity. Manhattan or an Old Fashioned. This enables
There’s no doubt that the bartending fraternity more people to try.” As an indication of the
has come on in leaps and bounds in recent brand’s direction, the latest suggesting is a
years. Spurred on by the stature of their Mosquito – a Mojito where the rum is substituted
colleagues in the US, bartenders in many of the for malt whisky.
world’s top cities have emerged as true So are whisky cocktails going to be the “next
professionals, dedicated to learning and big thing”? Well, I’d suggest the answer to that
perfecting their art. Yet set against this backdrop most facetious of questions would have to be a
of increased sophistication, expertise and resounding “no”, but that’s not to say the trend
creativity, they still spend vast swathes of their won’t pick up steam gradually. Besant probably
time drowning an odourless, colourless, hits the nail on the head when he describes the
flavourless spirit with an ample slug of sweet, segment as a significant niche – and if more
sticky fruit juice. Pengelly spends much of his brand owners begin to court the bartending
time training staff at the top bars in London and fraternity there’s no reason why whisky cocktails
he is adamant that “if they could sell whisky couldn’t engineer a pretty significant growth. As
cocktails all night they’d be far happier [than Pengelly puts it, “Looking back over the trends,
selling vodka cocktails]; it enables them to use every spirit has its time in the sun. Tequila
their skills much more”. emerged form nowhere, now rum is coming up
There is clearly an interest among many strong and whisky isn’t far behind.”
mixologists and some brand owners are taking With the exception of the hardcore purists,
a proactive approach to communicating with there now appears to be widespread acceptance
them – but for those producers who are thinking that whisky is a suitable base for cocktails. And
about pursuing such a strategy for the first time, many people would fervently argue that the
Glenmorangie’s Harvey has some sagely right mixer can ultimately even enhance the
advice. Glenmorangie master distiller Dr Bill experience. But the one caveat to this appears to
Lumsden has personally devised a number of be cola, which is still viewed as an indiscretion
recipes that are suggested – but they are very that borders on taboo. “As long as the serve
much suggestions, not instructions. “We don’t enhances the flavour of the spirit I don’t see
want to be proscriptive and controlling with the any problem with it,” says Harvey, “as long as
brand,” says Harvey. The recipes are presented you’re not just lobbing coke on the top.” If
for those who are seeking inspiration, “but we only someone had told our poor anonymous
don’t dictate how Glenmorangie should be marketing manager. sb
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