from the editor - Kevin Robinson
Bring On the Regulators!
Despite me lambasting the wannabes relatively affluent consumers who want
in the last issue, it seems that the to prevent or redress visible damage to
world of cosmeceuticals is unharmed the skin caused by ageing, ultraviolet
and looking at a bright and prosperous radiation and other environmental
future. The demand for such products stressors. Improved formulations will
is expected to increase 8.5% per further promote the use of age-defying
year to more than $8 billion in 2010, products. Professional products are
propelled by a stream of new and expected to experience the fastest
technologically advanced product growth among cosmeceutical products,
introductions offering age-defying and achieving double-digit annual gains
other appearance-enhancing benefits through 2010.
for an ageing population. These trends
are presented in Cosmeceuticals, a new Well, I could go into another tirade
study from The Freedonia Group, Inc. about the “benefits” of these products
and their complete lack of medicinal
Factors that were said to limit and health improving applications, but
the potential growth of the sector I’ll let you, the reader, contemplate the
were listed as competition from cosmeceutical implications of “age-
alternative treatments — such as defying” and “appearance-enhancing.”
laser resurfacing and cosmetic If the general consensus of opinion is
surgery — which often offer more that it’s a fair and correct notion to
dramatic results, though at a greater waste a doctor’s time with ailments a drug because its intended use
cost in terms of time, money and such as getting older and “not looking is to treat dandruff. Consequently,
safety. Cosmeceutical products also my best today,” as opposed to specific an antidandruff shampoo is both a
face intense pricing competition, age-related conditions that need to be cosmetic and a drug.
it was stated, owing to the growing treated with prescribed drugs, then
market penetration of private label let the misuse of the term continue. Such products must comply with the
cosmeceutical brands and the In fact, let’s broaden it out a bit; any requirements for both cosmetics and
rapid commoditization of innovative shampoo or conditioner that prevents drugs. And that’s the question I would
ingredients and products. a bad hair day should also be classed put to the sellers and marketers of
as a cosmeceutical … shouldn’t it? their so-called cosmeceuticals: “Does
The value of chemicals used in After all, it’s enhanced an appearance! your product comply with the FDA’s
cosmeceutical products is expected requirements for intended use as a
to advance 8.8% per year to $1.2 Devil in the Details drug?” Is it intended for use in the
billion in 2010, with gains spurred by The legal difference between a diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment
the use of new, value-added active cosmetic and a drug is determined or prevention of disease … and/or
ingredients in product formulations. by a product’s intended use. intended to affect the structure or any
Chemicals used in professional Different laws and regulations function of the body of man or other
products will drive gains, with strong apply to each type of product. animals? And, if so — as a drug product,
advances expected for botulinum toxin Firms sometimes violate the law by which is therefore subject to FDA
and hyaluronic acid. Other chemicals marketing a cosmetic with a drug approval — has it received premarket
expected to record rapid gains include claim, or by marketing a drug as if approval by the agency? Or, does it
amino acids, antioxidants, botanical it were a cosmetic, without adhering conform to final regulations specifying
extracts and beta hydroxy acids. to requirements for drugs. Some conditions whereby it is generally
products meet the definitions of recognized as safe (GRAS) and effective,
Skincare products will account for 60% both cosmetics and drugs. This and not misbranded? I wonder.
of all cosmeceutical product demand may happen when a product has
in 2010. Anti-ageing products will two intended uses. For example,
achieve above-average growth, with a shampoo is a cosmetic because
gains driven by a highly receptive, fast- its intended use is to cleanse the
expanding group of middle-aged and hair. An antidandruff treatment is
www.nutraceuticalmag.com may digital 2007 nutraceutical business & technology 5
Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34 Page 35 Page 36 Page 37 Page 38