cosmeceuticals
suppliers should define plant extract ished products and concluded that, while health and beauty concerns of an age-
quality for their customers and guaran- there is encouraging scientific evidence ing population will drive growth during
tee reproducibility of that quality from for the effectiveness of some, well-con- the next few years. Innovative products,
batch to batch. They should also set up trolled trials would improve the image concepts and delivery systems, together
guidelines for the selection of the raw and acceptability of others and, indeed, with the resolution of regulatory issues
materials, and appropriate analytical the whole market segment. Products and the emergence of more sound
controls to validate the production pro- and ingredients singled out as good scientific data, will all be vitally impor-
cess and to ensure the correct content examples of sound science included tant in unlocking the full potential of the
of the active component. Last but not the Laboratoire Oenobiol range of food beauty food and nutricosmetics trend.
least, extracts should be easy to formu- supplements where, said Dr Grünwald,
late within the desired food matrix and clinical or dermatological tests had been
it should be possible to demonstrate done on each product proving efficacy;
their bioavailability and efficacy in the Inversion Femme, for which each pro-
Cognis and Cosmeceuticals
final product. posed action had been confirmed in a
Professor Jürgen Vormann, from the separate clinical trial during a sampling
Cognis Nutrition & Health is
Institute for Prevention and Nutrition time of 8 weeks; and Tonalin conjugated a leading global supplier of
in Munich, Germany, spoke on the linoleic acid, from Cognis Nutrition &
natural-source ingredients with
role of coenzyme Q10, an endogenous Health. This ingredient’s effectiveness
acknowledged expertise in the
cosmeceuticals market. The
substance with many health benefits, for body fat reduction has been proven
company provides an extensive
including the maintenance of healthy in randomized, double-blinded, placebo-
portfolio of products suitable for
skin function. He supported the idea controlled studies, he said.
beauty foods and supplements,
of supplementation because, he said, from long-established skin
as people age, the natural production
essentials such as natural-source
of Q10 in the body is reduced.
vitamin E and carotenoids, to a
range of plant extracts and brands
such as Tonalin‚ conjugated linoleic
The issue of sensitive skin is currently
acid — the original and most
a focus for Laboratoire Oenobiol. It is a
extensively researched CLA brand
problem reported by more than 50% of for reducing body fat; Xangold‚
women according to Dr Marie Béjot-Ha-
natural lutein esters; and Omevital
rang and, she said, the condition is re-
high purity omega-3 fish oils.*
lated mainly to dietary lipid inadequa-
These top quality science-based
cies that can be broadly summarized
ingredients are accompanied by
as insufficient omega-3 fatty acids and
services crucial to customers:
too much omega-6. Importantly, these applications and regulatory
inadequacies cannot be put right with
expertise; commitment to R&D;
topical applications — essential fatty
technical service; and marketing
acids must be obtained from the diet. Red Tape Dilemma
support. Additional cosmeceutical
market insight and experience
In keeping with Dr Béjot-Harang’s five A stumbling block to the successful
comes from a long history of
key points for success, scientific trials market development of cosmeceuticals
involvement in the personal care
are being conducted to further explore currently lies in the legislative position in market through the Cognis Group’s
this hypothesis and its implications. Europe. Kath Veal from the Regulatory
Care Chemicals unit.
and Technical Consultancy Services of
A Healthy Scepticism? Leatherhead Food International summa-
Cognis, your natural partner for
beauty foods and supplements.
According to Datamonitor, more than rized this complex issue by posing two
75% of consumers have some degree questions that need to be addressed:
of scepticism about the validity of first, is the formulation acceptable (in
manufacturers’ claims for cosmeceutical terms of novel ingredients, for example); * Tonalin CLA is an exclusively licensed product of
products … and this is the main reason and, secondly, are the claims permitted the Cognis Group.
why they hesitate to try them. Convinc- in terms of nutrition and/or health?
ing scientific evidence should provide For more information
an effective antidote to this scepticism. The conference programme left no Dr Sybille Buchwald-Werner
Dr Jörg Grünwald said that beauty foods doubts about the existence of a wealth Tel. +49 2173 4995 116
boast a multitude of claims but, he of opportunities to develop the cosme- nutrition-and-health-europe@
asked, can they deliver? He examined the ceutical market in Europe. The desire cognis.com
credentials of several ingredients and fin- of consumers to look good, and the
18 nutraceutical business & technology may digital 2007 www.nutraceuticalmag.com
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