www.christianhough.com
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First things first...
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Positions everyone!
“Before you start shooting you’re going “Now that we’ve set up all the lights its time to position your model.
to have to set up all your lights and Try to place the model about 5-6ft away from the background; also,
accessories. Try to follow the diagram opposite try and keep the lights and yourself roughly the same distance away from
as closely as possible when positioning your your subject. With the model ready and everything in place we can start
lights. Next, set all your lights to the correct shooting; dial in f/11 as your aperture and around 1/125 sec shutter speed.
output (as shown) and make sure to take some HINT: if you’re using a digital camera you can get an exposure reading from
meter readings to check everything is correct. your cameras LCD. Check the flashing highlights to see if any part of the
The two rear lights can have quite a varied image is overexposed. If you do find part of the image over exposed play
output depending on your models attire, adjust around with the cameras aperture & the flash output to find a nice medium”.
the lights gradually until you achieve the
desired effect. Light skin will require less light
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Action!
than dark clothing”.
“For this shot you should be looking to really try and highlight the
equipment used...
Ringlite Converters nice ‘halo’ effect in the subjects glasses. Try not
to over expose the models face as this will distract from the highlight in the glasses
3 x Gemini 500Ws monoblocs which is one element of the photo that really makes this shot stand out. HINT: Try
1 x Ringlite Converter to keep the angle of your subjects body as central to the axis of the Ringlite
1 x Bowens Softbox 100x100cm Converter as much as possible as this will allow for a more continuous, even spread
1 x Bowens Softstrip 140x40cm of light over the front of model”.
1 x Black Paper Background
1 x Boom Lighting Stand
© Photo by Christian Hough: www.christianhough.com - model: Kayt Webster-Brown turn to PAGE 14 for a chance
agency: www.kokomodels.com - make-up: www.juliecooper.com
to WIN a ‘Ringlite Converter’
over exposed
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under exposed
correctly exposed
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final thought
“The Ringlite Converter provided the main light source and the two strip softboxes were only used moderately to provide a
modest degree of separation and prevent the model from disappearing completely into the background; if you don’t have a
strip softbox you can always use a normal softbox. You may find that you need to adjust the power of your softboxes in
accordance with your models attire. For example, bare arms are more reflective and will require less light than matt fabric.
Less is more as they say!”
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